Turkmen Patchwork

by Patricia Cummings

with photo contributions by Rachel Lehr, Margareta Faust,
(courtesy of Pascale Goldenberg), Jane Hall (courtesy of Adolf Siegrist), and eBay seller, uzcraft777.

Turkmen Adras Silk Pillowcase

Bob, a vendor on eBay ("uzcraft777") has auctions for hundreds of Uzbek textile items. After casually searching for additional Turkmen handiwork, I was happy to find his auction for the "Turkmen Adras Silk Pillowcase," seen below. If you are wondering what the word adras means, "uzcraft777" explains that the term refers to cloth that is a blend of cotton and silk. Note the style of the embroidered center of this particular pillow cover. Reportedly, it is fifty years old!

Turkmen adras pillow - center - 50 years old

Turkmen Adras Pillow - photo courtesy of "uzcraft777"- Antiquarian Textiles

After reading several online posts on several lists for quilting, a light bulb went off in my head. A while ago, I was preparing an article about Rubia, a project in Afghanistan whereby women make embroideries to raise money for literacy. I was shown an intriguing piece of patchwork, as an additional textile of interest, and told that it might date to the 1960s and possibly features Soviet and Chinese fabrics. Notice the typical "American" design, "Square in a Square," or rather "Diamond Within a Square," as the former is not a mathematical possibly. They repeat around the border, below.

Rachel's patchwork from Afghanistan

Typical Turkmen patchwork: one layer, pieced patchwork with lines of cross stitch embroidery around four blocks in the "central medallion." Date unknown.

This item has been well used, and well loved. These kinds of unquilted pieces are sometimes used for tablecloths. In this instance, the two corner loops indicate that it was used as a wall hanging. For more information see the article I wrote about "Rubia" (the link is at the end of this article). Collection of Rachel Lehr.

Similar Items Found in Europe

Margareta Faust of Luxembourg has seen similar items in the Camden Market in London ,and in Sainte-Marie (Alsace). With the permission of a German woman, Pascale Goldenberg, she was able to take the following photos. She tells us that these items are called Korakdusis and combine patchwork and embroidery. According to her, the fabrics range from ikats, to silks and velvets, as well as printed floral fabrics, many with roses that are often associated with Russian scarves. Possibly, these fabrics could have been available in the Soviet Union from the 1920s to the 1970s.

Turkmen Patchwork - photo 1

Brightly-colored Turkmen patchwork. In this particular piece many ""Flying Geese" are used, in the sashings and on the outside perimeter of each square.

Close up of Turkmen patchwork

Here is a close up of one of the blocks. The triangles of many colors and the bright solid pieces of cloth give this piece a kind of exuberance!

Turkish Patchwork - close up 2

Last three photos by Margareta Faust of Luxembourg

Yet another close up. Notice that the block to the far left has more than one color in the "surround" of the center. Other patchwork/embroideries of this type have included star patterns and other piecework that would look familiar to any American quilter.

A Short Background

No one knows exactly where the name "Turkmen" is derived. The name refers to an ethnic group that has traditionally been nomadic, living in Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, and Iran. For more details about these people, please refer to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turkmen_people

Photo Additions

Jane Hall has sent three more photos. When she and Dixie Haywood were writing a book a few years ago, they were put in contact with a Swiss man who owns a collection of Uzbekistan/Turkmen textiles. He sent snapshots of some of them. Jane states. "Many were camel saddle blankets, and many were bordered with perfect Flying Geese!" The Flying Geese configuations prove to Jane that there really is "nothing new under the sun."

Turkmen patchwork #1, Jane Hall

This piece is obviously meant to be hung vertically. The star configurations are prominent.

Turkmen Patchwork #2, Jane Hall

A second, very "busy" piece with any "Flying Geese" strips, and "Diamonds in a Square.

Turkmen Patchwork #3, Jane Hall

A third photo provided by Jane Hall. Notice the "movement" of the background fabrics, and the "containment" of the red squares that shine as though they may be silk.

Turkmenistan was situated on the Silk Road and silk is a traditional fiber of the area, as is dyeing with madder root, a product that will dye cloth red, orange, or even brown. All of these photos you have seen here represent a long standing textile tradition.