Quilt Care

Straight Talk About Quilt Care Book

Cleaning

Chapter 2B

Hand Washing Old Quilts in the Bathtub

While this process is not to be undertaken without a lot of forethought, some individuals choose to hand wash their old quilts in a home bathtub. My home, built in 1821, has a deep cast iron tub that is perfect for this purpose.

A brand new, never used, white cotton sheet, that has been washed in hot water and rinsed twice, is draped over the edges of the tub so that the sheet will be underneath the quilt to facilitate lifting it out of the tub. To begin, in slightly lukewarm water, stir together one or two tablespoons of Orvus Paste and Ľ cup of Ivory Liquid. Add the solution to a bathtub half full of cool water. Lower the quilt into the water.

After the quilt has soaked for an hour, drain the tub, leaving the quilt in place. Move the quilt out of the direct flow of water and fill the tub again. Replace the rinse water as many times as needed until the final rinse appears to have clear water. This may be two or three times, or ten times. The rule of thumb is that the last rinse water should look clear enough “to drink.”

Be patient. Rinsing is a slow process. Do not twist or wring the quilt. Just gently push the excess water out of the quilt. Let it rest so that water can drain out of the quilt. Return from time to time to squeeze out more water. When you remove the quilt, using the sheet as a sling, have a pile of fluffy, white, absorbent terry towels ready to blot the quilt. Sponges would be of some assistance, too.

The whole process of wet washing one quilt will tie up an entire day. Choose the hottest time of the year to do this. To dry the quilt, lay it out on a clean sheet, in a shady spot, but not directly underneath a tree. Lay a clean sheet over the top of the quilt to help prevent bird droppings, dust, and debris from landing on the newly laundered surface. Be sure not to lay the quilt under a Mulberry tree where Robins and Cedar Waxwing birds are engaged in a feeding frenzy!

When washing a quilt at home, some people prefer to use a washing machine to spin the water out of a quilt that has soaked in a bathtub. The school of thought is that the centrifugal action of the spin cycle takes the work out of trying to manually push the water out of a just soaked quilt.

Personally, I do not recommend this action. Problems can occur when the waterlogged quilt is transported from bathtub to washer, and when one is trying to cram the quilt into a usually too-small, home washer. Remember that quilts are most prone to damage when wet.

Never suspend a wet quilt from a clothesline. That puts tremendous strain on the seams, could displace the batting, could cause fabric tears, and is way too much stress to place on wet cotton fibers that are weighted down with heavy, soggy batting, in the middle.

If the washing process has begun early in the day, the quilt should be completely dry by the time the sun goes down. In more humid weather, drying could take longer. If the quilt is not dry when it is taken in from outside, lay it flat in an area of your home that does not get a lot of traffic and place several fans, blowing nearby. Be sure that no moisture is left in the quilt at all, before wrapping it for storage in a confined space.

antique redwork quilt with mineral stain In the booklet, First Aid for Family Quilts, (Moon Over the Mountain Publishing Co. 1986), Nancy O'Bryant Puentes discusses the brown lines that can appear on the top of an antique quilt, if it has not been dried fast enough. After years of being in print, this handy booklet is still available to order at: (303) 215-9001.

Mineral damage of this kind is shown in the photo at the left.

According to a quilt restoration video prepared by Nancy Kirk, these lines are minerals that rise to the surface. Since they will seek the highest point, it is recommended that cheesecloth be placed on top of the drying quilt.

Turning to the Internet, I found two promising sources for cheesecloth yardage. There may be more. One is Alphasource, (800) 589-7369. Another business, Ace Mart Restaurant Supply, sells rolls of cheesecloth that are seventy yards long by one yard wide. For more details, see: http://tinyurl.com/avt3n

Advice found on the Bishop Museum website says that cheesecloth that is placed over a drying quilt should be washed in hot water first, and rinsed twice.

Ask the vendor to suggest a suitable weave of cheesecloth which will be a tighter weave than that which is commonly found in the grocery store for making jelly. If you will be washing the cheesecloth, it stands to reason that a higher “grade” (i.e. “tighter weave”) would be more appropriate for mineral collection while drying quilts. http://www.bishopmuseum.org/research/pdf/cnsv-quilts.pdf

Alternately, call the Bishop Museum at (808) 847-3511.

Joan Kiplinger, vintage fabrics specialist and author of Vintage Fabrics Identification and Value Guide (Paducah, KY: Collector Books, Fall 2005) says that any shampoo that you like for yourself should be fine for cleaning washable silk and washable wool.

In addition, Joan recommends PERK and its companion product, Boost, to treat more stubborn stains for those same fibers. PERK is not considered a hazardous product by OSHA standards. According to the product's Material Safety Data Sheet, PERK's chemical composition is “mixed alkoxylates and polyoyethylene esters,” and contains no bleach.

PERK and Boost were developed at the request of museums. Until recently, the two products have not been known or marketed widely. They are favored among doll collectors and those who deal with antique textiles. Perk is touted to remove a number of different types of stains. To learn more about the products, please visit one of the following websites. Judith Gridley's website: http://www.fabrics.net

or Twin Pines website: http://www.twinpines.com

Engleside also produces a product called “All American Quilt Wash,” sold in two pound jars. The company claims that the cleaner will remove most stains, will leave no residue, and will remove musty odors which are usually caused by mildew spores.

Another name brand quilt cleaning product is Mountain Mist's Ensure Quiltwash.” The company provides tips on washing quilts with their product. Just visit: http://www.stearnstextiles.com/quilt-washing.htm

PRO Retayne

Running dyes in cloth or quilts can be a quilter's nightmare. To address the problem, the PRO Chemical & Dye Company manufactures a product called PRO Retayne. The company's website lists directions which tell the consumer how to test commercially-bought fabric to see if it will benefit from the application of Retayne before it is washed. The product is engineered to stop fabric from bleeding.

http://www.prochemical.com/catalog/auxiliaries.htm

Synthrapol is used by people who dye their own fabrics. As a pre-wash, the product removes impurities in the cloth so that dye will be distributed evenly. As an after-wash, Synthrapol keeps loose dye in suspension and prevents it from re-depositing and staining other areas of the fabric. Both Retayne and Synthrapol are available from the Dharma Trading Co., (800) 542-5227. A more recent product is Synthrapol LF (low suds formula.) This is available from Pro Chemical.

Snowy Bleach is one product that a number of quilters have named as being useful in removing stains from lighter areas of quilts, when colors have run in the wash. Since prevention is always the best cure, be sure to pre-test all fabrics in quilts that you might wash, to ascertain whether there will be any potential problems. Of course, if you notice colors bleeding into the water while washing a quilt, stop the washing process immediately. Ask yourself what may be to blame. Some potential problems could be:

chlorinated tap water
phosphates in the detergent
use of chlorine products
old, unstable dyes
water temperature too warm

The trickiest part is that dyes that have bled onto existing fabrics should not be allowed to dry, lest the stains “set in.” At that point, one of the above “solutions” may be a good choice. Running dyes is probably one of the main reasons not to try to clean an eighteenth or nineteenth century quilt, at home.

Always Pre-Wash Fabrics for Baby Quilts

The best time to wash the fabrics that will be in a quilt is before the quilt is a quilt. Washing new fabrics will provide an opportunity to further rinse out chemicals such as formaldehyde, a common surface treatment for cotton cloth, used to control wrinkling and shrinkageof the finished product.

If you have ever done dissections in High School Biology class, the very mention of formaldehyde will make your eyes water. The chemical can cause toxic reactions of the central nervous system. The good news is that formaldehyde is quite soluble in water and pre-washing fabrics will remove it, as well as potential residues left on the cloth's surface from the manufacturing process.

Dreft is a laundry product specifically made for washing clothes and textiles that will touch baby's sensitive skin. Pre-washing fabrics is a vital part of the process of making a baby quilt. Before pre-washing yards of fabric, test a piece of each fabric with the detergent first, to see if the cloth appears to remain colorfast.

Dreft should also work well for washing baby quilts. The label states that Dreft can be safely poured directly onto stains. Dreft will not remove the flame resistance of children's sleepwear, which seems like an additional reason for buying the product. The best way to dry a baby quilt is to drape it over a towel that has been placed on a collapsible, wooden, utility clothing rack in a warm area of your home, such as the kitchen.

"Cheer, Free and Gentle” is a promising detergent for both quilts and clothes. The product has both anionic and non-ionic surfactants and enzymes that have been added for better cleaning. The detergent is perfume-free, is recommended by dermatologist, and has no phosphates. As is the case with any detergent or agent used to clean textiles, first test a small area of the garment or item, if you are at all concerned about colorfastness.

In terms of suggested products for people with sensitive skin, one online dermatology clinic recommends “ALL Free & Clear,” “Tide Free,” and “Downy Flakes,” in addition to “Cheer, Free and Gentle” and “Dreft.” There is now a “Wisk, Free/Clear.”

Can Chlorine Be Neutralized?

Is chlorine routinely added to your city water? Call to check. According to Harriet Hargrave, chlorine could be the culprit if dyes on fabrics that are 100% cotton are running when you wash them. In her book, Hargrave provides the fantastic tip that either sodium bisulfite or sodium hyposulfite, both known as Anti-chlor, can neutralize chlorine in tap water. Both of these chemicals can be obtained from pet supply stores or from businesses that install swimming pools or indoor spas. Anti-Chlor can also be ordered online at: http://www.prochemical.com/catalog/auxiliaries.htm

Hargrave's must-have book, From Fiber to Fabric, explains how to test water for chlorine content.

Whenever using Anti-Chlor, be sure to be in a well-ventilated area and use an appropriate respirator that filters gas fumes. The thin paper and cotton masks that are sold for very little money are only good for dust and large grain particles.

Patti Ives of Nevada, who has worked extensively with dyeing fabrics and discharging colors, says that it is imperative to wear a mask when working with chlorine, discharge paste, and fine dye powder. Her husband, Mike Ives, who works for a mining company, was able to purchase a safety mask for her, at a nearby mine Safety Store.

Dharma Trading Company, http://www.dharmatrading.com/info/ carries dust masks, Deluxe Rubber Respirators, and Multi Gas/vapor Cartridges. All products are reasonably priced.

A quick check with Home Depot reveals that they sell A.O. Safety Respirators and even have one that is specifically engineered to filter out chlorine fumes, a feature of particular interest to art quilters. The product sells for less than $40., and new canisters (filters) are available for about $15.

If you've ever been swimming in a chlorinated public swimming pool, you will remember the odor that clings to your swim suit. Caution is advised in using any chlorinated product on textiles that you want to have a long life. Chlorine never completely washes out of a garment and will cause eventual deterioration of fibers. So, if you know that your city water has chlorine, do not use the water without first neutralizing it, or else purchase gallons and gallons of distilled water for the washing and rinsing process.

Additional Products

Quiltwash™ is composed of biodegradable surfactants, builders, and solvents and contains no phosphates, according to the label on the bottle. The Craftgard company product is called safe for all natural and synthetic fabrics, and is highly recommended as a pre-wash for fabric to be used in quilts, and to clean finished and heirloom quilts. The bottle contains 12 Fl. Oz., and only a capful is needed for one load of wash. Country Treasures Quilt Shop in Chester, Vermont carries Quiltwash™: (802) 875-4377. This product is distributed to other quilt shops, as well, so you might want to check your local area. To contact the company directly, write to: The Craftgard® Co., P.O. Box 1785, St. George, UT 84771; call toll-free: (888) 878-1212; or visit their website: www.craftgard.com

Another product sold by Country Treasures is called Grandma's Secret Spot Remover. This product is recommended for removing “Oil, Grease, Paint, Make-Up, Grass, Clay, Inks, Blood, Baby Formula, Spaghetti Sauce, Coffee, Rust, Tar, Fabric Bleed, Turmeric, Betadine—most any kind of STAIN.” What's more, only a drop is needed, and the product is environmentally safe. Instructions on the bottle suggest testing for colorfastness before using the stain remover on any specific textile. For more information, see: www.grandmassoap.com

Freshen Cotton Woven Coverlets and Knit or Crocheted afghans in Dryer

To “freshen” cotton woven coverlets that are fringed, and to remove dust from them, place them in the clothes dryer and set the machine on the “air only” setting. This method also works well clean dust off of crocheted afghans. These are so fragile, they sometimes can get pulled apart, if placed in a washer.

Kitty Mishaps – A Story With Lessons to Tell

An elderly friend owned the ugliest cat on the planet. While I generally love animals, this cat did not win my heart. In fact, I really disliked him because it seemed that he was always inflicting damage on a particular antique textiles that my friend owned. Her prize possession was a North Carolina Lily quilt top that had been made in Ohio, circa 1850, by “Auntie.” My friend wanted to see the top made into a finished quilt before she died. Her hope was to leave this quilt to her family, as an heirloom piece. No thanks to the cat, her wish finally came true. In the meantime, there were obstacles to overcome!

Antique North Carolina Lily quilt top circa 1850

Midnight Accident

The first mishap occurred during the night. After making some seam repairs, I had gone to her apartment and had laid out the top with batting and backing. After hand basting it, the quilt sandwich had been placed in a large quilting frame that had been set up in a room with a door. Even though the room was actually part of the house, my friend referred to it as a “porch,” probably because there were so many windows. A glass door separated the dining room from the porch.

While she slept, the breeze from the open windows on the porch blew the glass door shut. A thunderstorm had blown up and the frightened cat jumped on top of the quilt and had an “accident.” When my friend woke up, and saw this mess on the quilt, she quickly took it out of the frame and placed it in her bathtub where she proceeded to scrub it with an unknown cleaning agent. Managing to clean it, to her own satisfaction, she placed a piece of plastic on her dining room table and put the three layers of the intended quilt, on top of the table.

For the rest of the night, this octogenarian stood there over the quilt, with a hair dryer. Miraculously, the quilt did dry, and all was okay...until the next time she called.

"Mr. Kitty” and His Abscessed Tooth

The next call for help was totally overwhelming. “Mr. Kitty” had been having a dental problem and had decided that the antique quilt, temporarily laid on a piece of furniture, would be an ideal place to sit and drool. In the wink of an eye, there was bloody saliva all over one block (luckily, only one!).

Being a former nurse, her first impulse was to disinfect that area of the quilt! Logically (to her), she reached for the bottle of Chlorine Bleach, knowing that it whitens, and might get out the blood. However her attempt at cleaning removed the color from both the turquoise-green “leaves,” and the red “Lily” petals of the quilt block. She wanted to know “what to do.” Again, prevention of the problem would have been the superior scenario!

Finally, my friend decided to give up on the notion of quilting the quilt herself or having her friends (who were mostly embroiderers) try to help her. She sought the services of a woman who does professional restoration work and hand quilting, in a nearby state. This wonder woman was able to match the colors of the original fabrics and replace the pieces of the damaged block. The quilt now resides with my friend's daughter, whom I sincerely hope, owns no cats. All's well that ends well.

What About Soap?

A question sometimes asked is, “Why not use soap on quilts?,” and also, “After all, what is in soap?”

Marietta Ellis, a soap historian, states that early soap was first made by boiling wood ash and waste fats together. Ellis has spent thirty years researching the history of soap. She has written a lengthy online article entitled, “Colonial Soap Making, Its History and Techniques,” in which she describes soap-making methods from early times through the Victorian Era. To gain a better understanding of the subject, please see her very informative article, and its extensive Bibliography.

http://www.alcasoft.com/soapfact/history.html

Besides often containing dye and perfume, soap can interact with hard water, leaving particles of residue on the surface of the cloth. In contrast, a detergent, such as Orvus, dissolved in water, will rinse out well, and will leave no trace residue on the surface of the quilt. Orvus is mistakenly referred to as “Quilt
Soap.”

What is Hard Water?

So, what exactly is hard water? Hard water is water that has picked up mineral deposits from soil or rock formations underground. The presence of calcium and magnesium are the primary causes of hard water, although copper, iron, and zinc may also be present. While hard water does not constitute a personal health danger, it will shorten the lives of textiles. If you have well water, chances are greater that you will have hard water. Test kits are available from companies that sell water softening products.

To determine if your city water is hard, just call your local Water Treatment Plant. At the same time, ask if chlorine is regularly added to the drinking supply. This will help you to determine whether to buy some Anti-Chlor, a neutralizing agent for treating the tap water before it is used to wash a quilt or other fine hand washable, antique linen textile, or needlework.

According to a scientific site online, http://www.hardwater.org/ there are five ways to treat hard water: packaged water treatment softeners, chemical water softeners, reverse osmosis water treatment filters, mechanical water treatment, and electro-magnetic water treatment. Some companies specialize in hard water solutions.

Go to Chapter 2C