Redwork
by Patricia Lynne
Grace Cummings
photos by James Cummings
The history of Redwork as a needlework technique is quite fascinating. We have uploaded the Just for Fun Redwork book that we published in 2003, for your enjoyment of its 98 olde designs and instructions. We will be adding three more Redwork titles that have been previously published, nationally reviewed, and sold as hard copy books. Check our site map, and/or the home page of our website for additions.
Patricia Cummings on August 3, 2007. photo by James Cummings
First, let's dispel some myths.
1) "Turkey work" embroidery is not the same as Redwork embroidery. They are two totally different needlework techniques, involving very different ways of working with thread and needle.
2) "Turkey Red" refers to a process of dyeing fabric and threads, not a specific resultant color. Some red threads of the nineteenth century possessed fugitive dyes. Turkey Red cotton embroidery floss was colorfast and lightfast, making it a desirable product.
3) Turkey Red did not originate in the country of Turkey, but in eastern India, according to most scholars of the color Red.
4) Outline Stitch embroidery refers to the use of either Stem Stitch or Outline Stitch to embroider the perimeter of a design.
Origins
Although we do not know the exact antecedent of Redwork, it has been suggested that popular journals, such as Harper's Bazar (the original spelling of the magazine's name) influenced women to take up this technique. Others look to the Philadelphia Exposition in 1876 as the true antecedent. The fact remains that we do not know the name of the person whose idea it was to stitch only the outline of a shape, rather than fill the whole interior of each design.
Redwork also appears to have been a utilitarian application of needlework to adorn everyday items, in direct contrast to the immediately preceding trend of Victorian Crazy Patchwork, that was merely decorative.
We do know that this type of stitching was used extensively by the needleworkers, in-training, at the Royal School of Art Needlework in Kensington, England, during the very late nineteenth century. Students decided to embroider designs by using Outline Stitch embroidery rather than filling in the motifs completely.
Antique Design for Outline Stitch Embroidery
enlarged and redrawn by Patricia Cummings
KENSINGTON STITCH
Outline Stitch came to be known as the Kensington Stitch, and later, by the color thread that was employed for the stitches: Red, Blue, or Green. The earliest categories for Outline Stitching were called "Redwork," "Bluework," and "Greenwork." These were the earliest colors chosen, based on availability. Over the years, other color threads would be added to the selection, including pastel colors in the twentieth century, when that thread became available. Much later, variegated threads would be used.
BASIC STITCHES NEEDED
The simple stitches of Redwork are easy enough for a child to do, but are complicated enough that they take practice and skill for even a grown-up to do them well. All that is required to get started is the knowledge of a few basic stitches such as Outline Stitch, Stem Stitch, French knots or Colonial knots, and Couching.
THE DESIGNS OF KATE GREENAWAY
Kate Greenaway, a popular British illustrator of books for children, created many images of children at play. Some of these were adapted to outline designs for Redwork, some of which were sold as "Penny Squares" (for one penny each) that featured motifs that were stamped onto unbleached muslin.
Greenaway's first book, Under the Window, is now a classic. The publisher went to great lengths and expense to add color to the book. A chapter of my book, Redwork Embroidery and Needlework Traditions in Europe and America (Concord, NH, Quilter's Muse Publications, 2006) is dedicated to the life and work of this fabulous artist, (1846-1901).
REDWORK AS GENERIC TERM
Actually, the word "Redwork" has taken on the significance of an umbrella term for a certain type of embroidery, that supercedes the color of the thread used. When Indigo blue thread was used, the work took on the name of “Bluework,” or the modern term that some prefer, “Redwork in Blue.” I chose the color blue to embroider the "Crescent Moon Goddess" cover design from my first book, Redwork Renaissance (Concord, NH, Quilter's Muse Publications, 3rd edition, 2006). The original motif source for the Crescent Moon Goddess, appears in a late nineteenth century advertisement.
GREENWORK
Greenwork seems not to have been done as often. Of course, some motifs lend themselves well to the color green. The color very well suits a set of seven Outline-Stitched, whimsical turtles known as "Murtle Turtles." The patterns are sold as "day of the week" towel designs by Aunt Martha Iron-on Transfers, catalog number 3766.
Please visit our file called "The Turtle Quilt" to see a more recent rendition of turtle block designs.
The use of many different colors of thread in outline stitch embroidery was a twentieth century happening. Please see the "Turtle Quilt" file, mentioned above, for more information about this design.
For availability of the "Murtle Turtle" pattern and/or to see a photo, please check:
http://www.yesteryeardepot.com/AM3766.JPG.
For more information about all of Aunt Martha's patterns, see:
http://www.colonialpatterns.com/products.html
"BLACKWORK" IS NOT A VARIATION OF REDWORK
While Black thread may be found in rare Outline Stitch Embroideries, the resulting piece should never be called "Blackwork." This could be called "Redwork in Black,” or "Outline Stitching in Black.
This recently-made quilt by Carol Godreau of Connecticut utilizes Black outline stitch for details of the "Grace Deering" ship of which her great, great uncle was the captain. A beautiful Redwork quilt, made by Carol,appears in our book, Redwork Embroidery and Needlework Traditions in Europe and America.
TRADITIONAL BLACKWORK
Blackwork is a specific needlework technique that consists of counted thread work stitched in geometric patterns on linen. Blackwork includes no Surface Embroidery stitches (like those of Crazy Patchwork). Blackwork was introduced in England by Catherine of Aragon who was from Spain.
One source of information is Constance Fairfar's Commonplace Book available online. Another very nice source of knowledge about Blackwork embroidery is Elizabethan Blackwork: Blackwork for Costume
"Mary Had a Little Lamb" in yellow outline stitch embroidery (Yellow-work.)
collection of Patricia Cummings, photo by James Cummings
TYPE OF NEEDLES NEEDED
Crewel needles are generally used, if one is working with cotton embroidery floss. However, if a larger diameter fiber is used, such as pearl cotton (perle coton), then a Chenille needle can more easily serve the task at hand. Avoid tapestry needles if the surface you are working on is tightly woven. Tapestry needles have blunt ends and are best used for other types of needlework. They are often utilized in Silk Ribbon Embroidery, in conjunction with Chenille needles.
REDWORK AND ITS MANY USES
Redwork, as a pastime was quite popular in the Victorian
Age. The ladies sometimes worked small patches of Redwork to include in their Crazy
Quilts. Redwork designs found other uses to adorn quilts, coverlets, dish towels, laundry bags and laundry covers, and hairdressing vests, such as the one shown here (please click on the image for a larger view.) Also made were splashers,
bureau scarves, pillow covers, mantel covers, and other utilitarian household linens.
Nor was Redwork limited just to England and the United States. Antique items are showing up on eBay prove that Redwork is done in Czechoslovakia, France, Germany, and elsewhere. Some examples are shown, described, and translated in Redwork Embroidery and Needlework Traditions in Europe and America, by Patricia Lynne Grace Cummings.
RELAXING WORK
Redwork afforded built-in freedom to just sit and stitch, without too much trouble. Since the designs were so simple, anyone could try their hand at Redwork. Many of these old motifs were not handily crafted and were not perfect. Larger quilts and coverlets often have a wide variety of sizes in their motifs because the designs were gathered from a number of sources: ladies' magazines of the day, catalogs to order perforated designs to use with stamping materials, Penny Squares, and the trade of designs among friends, to name a few.
The color combination of red and white was favored well into the second decade of the twentieth century, and is seen particularly in Red Cross Quilts, and single and Double Irish Chain Quilts in either Blue and White, or Red and White. Bluework seems to have been most popular around 1910. At least one antique quilt, collected by Phyllis Twigg, who prepared a book about it, contains some Red blocks that have White embroidery on them.
In the 1930s, pastel threads had gained ground after being introduced earlier in the century, and they ruled the day. Many times, the color black was included in commercially-designed products. Outline Stitch embroidery motifs continued to be popular throughout the decade of the 1930s, especially on doilies, tablescarves and other utilitarian household items.
Some embroiderers like to use Purple ("Violet") colored threads for Outline Stitch embroidery. With a major quilt revival underway in the 1930s, we see that many antique quilts of that era combine both piecing and embroidery. These quilts were often tied.
One is not too old or too young to enjoy doing Redwork and it is a pleasant and rewarding pastime. Redwork is fun to teach to 4-H groups, Girl Scouts, church youth groups, or the technique can be used to introduce members of your own family to the needlearts. The Redwork bear that is now our logo was made by me, at the age of five.
The nineteenth century doily, shown above, has either faded from red to pink, or was originally pink. It appears to be the latter. Lewis collection. photo by James Cummings
An Often Asked Question: What Color Thread Shall I Use?
What DMC embroidery floss colors are the best?
Any color that suits your fancy is fine. For a more traditional look, use #498, #321, or #304 for Redwork, and #797 or #813 for Bluework. For my grandson's image below, I embroidered with DMC #826.
Our grandson, Patrick James Gorham, Bluework based on a photo.
Join a new Yahoo group for enthusiasts of Redwork, Bluework, Greenwork, Pinkwork, Purplework, Yellowwork
and other kinds of Outline Stitch embroidery, and its History:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/outline_stitch_embroidery_and_history/
When you request membership, you MUST state your name.
RESOURCES: FOUR BOOKS ON REDWORK
which are posted or will be posted online, free of charge
by Patricia Lynne Grace Cummings,
and published by Quilter's Muse Publications:
Redwork Embroidery and Needlework Traditions in Europe and America, 2006, Primarily a history book, but contains many designs.
Redwork Renaissance: 49 Designs from an 1893 Coverlet, 2002, 2004, 2006. Latest edition contains additional vintage motifs.
Just for Fun Redwork Book: 98 designs from an antique quilt top, many of them just precious, 2003.
Emma's Quilt: 104 Redwork designs traced from "Emma's Quilt." The designs on the quilt were embroidered in 1898.
MAGAZINE ARTICLE:
“Redwork: Something Old is New Again,” by Patricia L. Cummings, The Quilter magazine, November 2002, pages 96-99.
ON THE QUILTER'S MUSE SITE:
A History of Redwork Splashers Article
Review of the Redwork Exhibit at A Quilter's Gathering Show, 2002
Redwork: "Pigs in A Grove" and other free quilt patterns and outline stitch embroidery patterns
©Copyright December 2003/update 2007, Quilter's Muse Publications, Concord, NH. All rights reserved. Contact Pat at: pat@quiltersmuse.com