Quilt Care
Straight Talk About Quilt Care Book
Cleaning Quilts
Chapter 2A
by Patricia Cummings
photos by James Cummings, et.al.
A Low Suction Vacuum Is Your Quilt's Best Friend
Checklist for Vacuuming
canister vacuum
2' x 2' fiberglass screen
white twill tape (at least 1/2” wide)
netting, cheesecloth, or old nylon stocking
heavy elastic band, or duct tape
Use a piece of fiberglass screen, edges protected with twill tape; a Hepa-filter vacuum with brush attachment covered with an old knee-high nylon stocking, duct-taped on; and wear nitrile gloves when vaccuming quilts. photo by James Cummings
Vacuuming a quilt is a good alternative to wet washing,and may be the only intervention that is ever needed for cleaning a quilt. At the veryleast, it is an initial step that is more safe than other cleaning methods. A large flat table is needed to lay the quilt on.
To vacuum correctly, first you will need to purchase a piece of 2' x 2' fiberglass screen at the hardware store. This is the same kind of screening that is used to repair a screen door.
In addition, you will need to buy white twill tape atthe sewing store. Unless you order by mail, there may not be a lot of
choice in the width of twill tape. All I could find locally was a
1/2” twill tape option. A wider tape might have been a little
easier to apply. The twill tape is folded in half and the crease of
the fold will be placed over the edge of the fiberglass screen. The
interior edges will be sewn to the screen around its perimeter with a
running stitch. The tape prevents the screen edges from catching
threads and snagging the quilt while it is being moved over the
quilt's surface during cleaning.
The ideal vacuum for a quilt is one with a Hepa-filter. This type of vacuum has filters which entrap particles and dust mites so that they are not blown around and re-circulated into the air, as happens with most upright vacuums that do not have Hepa-filters. This type of vacuum is especially recommended for use in homes where people suffer from allergies.
We purchased a high quality, canister-style, Hepa-filter vacuum from Sears, Roebuck & Co. in May 2005 for $300, the on-sale price which included $100. off. The vacuum is perfect for the task! It has an extra long hose, three filters, and a “low” setting option for suctioning power.
The cloth collection bag and the filters will need to be
replaced about every nine months. One selling point for the Sears
vacuum is that extra brush attachments can be ordered, as needed.
Vacuum the quilt slowly and methodically, moving the attachment over the entire surface. Keep the fiberglass screen between the nozzle of the vacuum and the quilt's surface, at all times.
If a Hepa-filter vacuum is not in your budget, you may use a low-power, canister vacuum, and a clean brush attachment. Secure a piece of netting cheesecloth, or old knee-hi nylon stocking over the opening of the attachment. Hold this filter in place with aheavy duty elastic band, or tape it on with duct tape.
The attachmentwill be held 1/2” to 1” from the surface of the quilt. Since a regular canister vacuum has a relatively short hose, this process is best done by two people, so that one can hold up the canister, especially when trying to reach the center portion of the quilt. Every now and then, switch tasks with your partner.
On one of her DVDs, Nancy Kirk suggest vacuuming the
back of the quilt first, then the front. In theory, most grime will
be removed through the back of the quilt, leaving less debris to be
picked up through the front, a better solution. Sounds like a capital
idea!
Vacuuming is a great alternative to wet washing methods, and if done on a regular basis, will keep your quilt in excellent condition.
To Wash or Not to Wash Your Quilt: That is the Question
In many cases, never being washed was the key to many a quilt's survival. Signature quilts were often never used nor washed, which partially accounts for so many of them being here today. They were received as special gifts and were then tucked away in trunks to be carried across the country during the westward migration, or to the next parish, in the case of quilts made for reassigned ministers who would be leaving the congregation.
An old-fashioned style washboard is shown here with a wooden bucket. The Soapwort plant in the foreground yields a lovely natural detergent.
These days, perhaps we live in more sterile surroundings than our forbears. With the ready availability of washing machines and dryers, we think nothing of wearing an outfit once and washing it. This was not the case in the “old days” when textiles were not routinely washed. According to the website: http://www.historychannel.com, “the earliest washing “machine” - the scrub board – was invented in 1797.” We have come a long way since then, but perhaps the scrub board was an improvement over beating clothes on rocks to clean them.
In earlier times, some folks owned only two outfits, one for everyday wear, and one for Sunday best. Of course, the wealthy owned considerably more clothes than their more impoverished counterparts! Early inventories often list all household textiles. Sheets and linens were monogrammed to claim ownership. Inventories tell us just how much quilts and textiles were valued.
NEVER WASH A QUILT,
UNLESS IT IS ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE!
"Wet Washing” Cotton Quilts
The two words, “wet washing,” can strike terror into
the heart of even the most die-hard conservator! Those of us who love
antique quilts know that it is usually most appropriate to not wash
an antique quilt. There are too many “iffy” things that can
happen, not the least of which is running dyes. If a quilt truly must
be washed, it is most often time to engage the services of a
professional. The
“Reference” section will tell you how to
contact a professional conservator in your area.
Good Advice, Said With A Smile
Quilt professionals are often asked for advice on this issue of washing quilts. No one has said it better, more succinctly, nor more humorously than Xenia Cord, a well-known, Kokomo, Indiana dealer of antique quilts. If you are thinking about washing an antique quilt, she advises, “Lie down until the urge goes away!” Those of us who love antique quilts, laugh, but know that Xenia is right! Washing a quilt is a more serious matter than most people imagine. There are too many things that can go terribly wrong. Carefully ponder that decision, and if in doubt, wait!
"Spot Wash” Stains as an Alternative to Washing the Whole Quilt
Sometimes, a quilt with minor stains can be successfully treated by “spot washing.” Whether or not the stain can be removed will depend on what it is, and how long it has been there. To treat a stain on an old quilt, first try softening the area with plain water. Then, mix up a small amount of Ivory liquid detergent and water. Dab it onto the stain with a cotton swab, and rise the area. Avoid rubbing the fabric surface vigorously, lest you end up with a hole instead of a soil mark.
As a whimsical alternative to removing a stain, consider adding an appliqué patch to cover it, particularly if the quilt has no great historical importance. The appliqué can be a nice little store-bought motif. Or, to add to the history of the quilt, a patch can be created from scratch. Conceivably, the patch could state why it is there, such as, “This is where 'so-and-so' spilled grape juice!”
A Disaster Waiting to Happen in the Washer
In the 1980s, before I “knew better,” I washed a
tied, queen size, “Irish Chain”
comforter, that has polyester
batting, in a home washer. Predictably, with no quilt stitches
holding the batting in place, the polyester shredded and shifted
inside the quilt. This left large areas where just the two layers of
cloth are touching each other. The only remedy would have been to
dismantle the binding, untie the ties, and replace the batting. The
quilt has found another home. Seen at right, is the reason for
washing the quilt, “Taffy, the Dog.”
What if I Really Have to Wash the Entire Quilt?
One reason for having to wash a quilt is is it has survived a house fire. The particulates of soot that settle on the quilt are know carcinogens (cancer-causing.) Therefore, the Red Cross volunteers who will come in to assist, will tell you that you must wash all the textiles in the house. Since the alternative is to throw these items away, you will probably want to follow their directives.
At the time of my friend's apartment fire, the agency volunteer recommended using Tide Detergent to wash everything, including a special quilt that had been hand-quilted by the fire victims boyfriend's mother. We took the “Double Wedding Ring” quilt to a laundromat because it has front-loading, triple-load capacity washers. These are more gentle on a quilt because these machines do not have a central agitator. Keep in mind that this was an emergency situation.
Love is Blind
Amazingly, the quilt came through the wash intact. Tide did clean and brighten the white background fabric but did not remove the little yellow stains on its surface, the result of pet (male) rats being “cuddled” by my blind friend, on her bed. Like male cats, these little rodents will also “spray” to mark a territory.
Being completely blind, my friend did not realize that
the quilt had acquired stains. Pet stores sell a stain remover for
organic pet stains. Perhaps, the product would
have been successful
in removing the soiled areas. Just be cautious if you use any cleaner
on cotton quilts that is not specifically recommended as safe for
cotton fabrics. Non-discriminatory use of chemicals may have
unpredictable or unsatisfactory results, and as always, test any
product on a non-conspicuous are of the item to be cleaned.
Product Removes Smoke Odor
More recently, I wondered why Tide had been the recommended detergent. In checking with staff at the local Red Cross office, I was told that Tide must have been just a personal choice of that particular volunteer. In the meantime, a product called OdoBan has become the “industry standard” for taking care of minor smoke damage in textiles, according to Phil St. Cyr, a Red Cross Disaster Relief Specialist in the Manchester, NH office. He states that smoke infiltrates any textile, breaks down the molecular structure of its fibers, and weakens them.
OdoBan is marketed to consumers through Sam's Club. For less than $10. per gallon of concentrate, a 32 ounce, ready-to-use spray bottle is included with purchase. To eliminate smoky odors, all that is needed is ¼ to ½ cup of OdoBan, added to the final rinse water in the washer. If cold water is used, the product should not cause fabrics to run in the wash. In addition, OdoBan should work well on textiles that have been subjected to cigarette smoke.
The website for the product indicates that the owner of the company first developed OdoBan as a way to remove odors from diapers.
Without having tried OdoBan, I want to make it clear that I am not endorsing the product, just making you aware of it. If you would like further information about the contents of OdoBan, please check the Materials Safety Data Sheet that is posted on their website: http://www.odoban.com As always, proceed at your own risk, and remember to use protective gloves and eye protectors, when handing any products that contain chemicals of this nature.
Test All the Fibers in Quilts for Colorfastness Before Wet Washing
Before washing an old quilt, use wet cotton swabs to test all of the threads and fibers in a given cotton quilt, to check for colorfastness. Do this by running the damp cotton swab along the surface. If any color is transferred onto the end of the swab, then do not wash the quilt as that fabric will probably run. Even if you do test in this manner, there are other factories which will affect the successful outcome of the washing project, as we shall see.
Is There a Preferred Cleaning Agent for Wet Washing?
A product called Orvus WA Paste, a trademark name of
Proctor and Gamble Co., is often recommended by textile specialist as
the preferred cleaner for 100% cotton fiber quilts and textiles.
Orvus is sold in agricultural feed stores in seven and on-half pound
containers that are labeled, “For industrial use only.”
If you cannot find Orvus locally, one mail order source is the New York based company, Talas, http://www.talas-nyc.com/ They sell the product in these sizes: one pound jars, two pound containers, a seven and a half pound size (like the feed store), and cases of four gallon containers. Usually, only one or two Tablespoons of Orvus is needle per half tub of water to wash a quilt, so if you only want to buy enough for washing some quilts, the smallest jar should last awhile.
Orvus is a synthetic, anionic detergent (sodium lauryl sulfate.) The dictionary describes the word “anionic,” as a detergent that has negatively charged ions. The antonym of the word is “non-ionic” which means, “not dissociating into ions in aqueous solution.”
To enhance the cleaning capability of Orvus, add ¼ cup of Ultra Ivory dishwashing liquid to one Tablespoon of Orvus, that has been dissolved in tepid or lukewarm water. This amount of detergent will wash one quilt in a half tub of water. For a more heavily soiled quilt, use two Tablespoons of Orvus.
Orvus is a solid substance at cool temperatures, and a more liquefied product at warmer ones. You will notice a marked difference in its consistency between summer and winter. If Orvus is in a solid state, it can always be dissolved in a cup of warm water before adding it to the wash water. One advantage of Orvus is that it will rinse out of cotton fabrics well.
Orvus is a “Safe” Product for its Intended Use
Reportedly, some individuals wash their hair with Orvus, instead of shampoo. While this is not recommended, one of the components of Orvus, sodium lauryl sulfate, is an ingredient of some shampoo mixtures. However, since the manufacturer does not specifically say that Orvus is safe for use on human body parts, caution is urged. The product label warns that Orvus is a potential eye irritant. For this reason alone, it does not seem suitable for use as a shampoo for people.
Antique "Democratic Donkeys" baby quilt serves as a backdrop to various products that are recommended for cleaning fabrics and quilts.
If you are prone to Atopic dermatitis, (eczema), avoid direct contact with the detergent. Instead, protect your hands by wearing nitrile gloves while washing a quilt. Most often, Orvus is used to clean up farm animals, (sheep and horses), for shows and fairs.
Never use Orvus to clean washable silk because the detergent has an affinity for silk fibers and will not wash out completely.
Why Ivory?
Recently, a friend asked me why the company, Dimensions, who made her needlework kit, would recommend soaking the finished cross stitch piece in Ivory Liquid dishwashing liquid. She wondered why they specifically recommend that brand and why the directions say not to use cleaners that are made for fine washables and linens.
Curious as to what the company would tell me, I called to chat with a representative. She stated that due to environmental concerns, production methods for dyed cotton threads have changed. Chemicals found in certain laundry products today will interact with currently manufactured dyed cotton threads and will cause the threads to bleed, she said.
The company recommends washing a piece of embroidery, “only if the needlework is absolutely soiled and must be cleaned.” If that is the case, she advises to “use tepid, almost cool water, and a clear dishwashing liquid, like Ivory, that has as few colorants, as possible.”
Ivory liquid contains both non-ionic and anionic surfactants. The word - “surfactant” – means “Surface active agent.” The three words have just been compressed into one word, according to the Wickipedia online dictionary.
Ivory is biodegradable and contains no phosphates. As a selling point, many detergents specify that they contain “no phosphates” in bold letters. Phosphate is a known environmental pollutant. Though often used to soften hard water, phosphate can also cause dyed cotton cloth to run in the wash.
If hot, humid conditions have prevailed while you worked on a piece of cotton or linen needlework or quilt block, cleaning it will be desirable. Natural skin oils and sulfur are imparted to any cloth we handle. Although not visible to the human eye right away, these areas could show up as stains later on.