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Thursday, November 3rd, 2011

“Bonny Charley” Textile and Song
Raise Questions as to Provenance

by Patricia L. Cummings, quilt historian/textile specialist

Recently, a reader sent me photos of a red and white monochrome printed textile. Featured on it is a main design and four corner scenes evoking the four (named) seasons. Traditional French buy generic cialis online without a prescription fabric often featured similar countryside scenes related to this same theme of changing seasons of the year. The main design is enclosed within a center circle and shows a handsome suitor in buckled shoes strolling with a maiden wearing an apron. This central medallion area is set off by a bead-like line composed of conjoined small circles that creates a visual division that separates it from the four corner scenes (labeled with the individual names of the four seasons) on this 28″ square piece of cloth.

rare textile with song lyrics

A rare textile, possibly from the late 18th century or early 19th century

Beneath the featured couple appear the lyrics to a three verse song titled “Bonny Charley.” My research reveals that the score for this song (for piano and voice) was collected by Lester S. Levy, a sheet music collector who donated his entire collection to John Hopkins University. In citations found on the university’s website, it is revealed that the composer/writer is not known and that this ephemera that consists of two pages may have an English provenance as do others in Box 29-31 in the collection. See http:levysheetmusic.mse.jhu.edu/

The verses, as transcribed from the textile, are:

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Cho5

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Cho5

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Cho5

Chorus

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On the sheet music, “&c.” appears, instead of “Cho5” after each verse.

lyrics
Song lyrics

In looking at the words, the poem/song appears to be of Scottish origin. For example, the verb “ to ken” means “to know” and is often used in Scotland. “Ken” shows up in the song “” that I recorded some time ago for a music file on this website.

The term of endearment, “bonny,” was first in use in Scotland and Northern England during the fifteenth century, according to The New Oxford American Dictionary, and may have its etymological roots in the French word “bon,” which means “good.” It is often used in a poetic or literary sense.

The words on the textile are written in an archaic form of English script in which the consonant “s” looks more like “f.” At first glances, the word “lasses” looks like “laffes” to the untrained eye.

With the English and Scottish clues present, the historic figure of “Prince Bonnie Charlie” came to mind, even though I realized that the spelling of the name “Bonny Charley” on the actual textile differed. I chalked it up to poetic license or to the idea that the textile may have been manufactured after the death of the prince whose life became romanticized as a kind of tragic but lovable personage after the 1746 defeat of the army he had mustered in Scotland to rise up against the English.

Perhaps I was just tilting at windmills to try to make this historic connection. I have consulted a number of books and found nothing about this particular printed textile. It could be a commemorative print that celebrates Prince Charlie’s life or as one dealer/expert in textiles declared, it could have just been manufactured as a whimsical handkerchief that does not have any greater significance. He warned me that it would be a thankless task to try to link this textile to Bonnie or Bonny Prince Charlie. In the meantime, I am trying to follow up on other clues such as the name “Ruffet” that appears on the surface of the cloth. Was this the designer, the manufacturer, or the engraver? The question remains unanswered and all attempts to learn more about Ruffet have so far failed.

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“Bonny Prince Charlie” is the affectionate name given by the people of England and Scotland to Prince Charles Edward Louis John Casimir Sylvester Severino Maria Stuart (1720-1788), also referred to as “the Young Pretender.” He was the son of James Stuart, dubbed the “Old Pretender,” and also grandson of James II, King of England/also designated as James VII of Scotland who was deposed by William of Orange. Prince Charles Stuart was the last of the Stuart line to be a claimant of the British throne.

A look at the life of Prince Charles is fascinating. He is mainly remembered for his attempts to attempt to reinstate England as an officially Catholic country by mustering 6,000 Scottish troops who fought on his behalf. Prince Charlie traveled to Scotland in July 1745 and made his way to Edinburgh where he was named King James VIII of Scotland. The following September, he led successful battles at Preston Paris and at Falkirk. Boldly, he led the Battle of Culloden on April 16, 1746 that ended in a defeat, the last battle to have ever been fought on English soil.

The Battle of Culloden was the result of a war of ideas between the Hanoverians and the Jacobites, not between England and Scotland, per se. Read more about these two factions at and .
After his defeat at Culloden, Charlie found safe harbor in homes across Scotland for five months. He eventually made his way to refuge in France where he lived as an expatriate.

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He has been well-celebrated in various songs. One has been documented as having been written almost a century after his death. The “Skye Boat Song” features words written by Sir Harold Boulder in 1884 and a traditional musical air collected by Annie McLeod in the 1870s. The lyrics make direct reference to the now famous woman “Flora” [MacDonald] who aided the Prince’s escape from Uist to the Isle of Skye and the second two lines of the first verse say: “Carry the lad that’s born to be king/Over the sea to Skye.”

The verses that follow are offer more explicit connections to Prince Charlie include a mention of the Battle of Culloden and its results:

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I note that again the proper name here is “Charlie” not “Charley” as is presented on the textile. The song book Rise Up Singing incorrectly states that Charlie was a child when he was escorted to safety by Flora. He was born in 1720 and the Battle of Culloden was conducted in April 1746, making him about 26 years old at the time!

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Likewise, another song was prepared in recognition of Charlies hiding in France. This song is based on a Scottish poem by Carolina Oliphant (Lady Nairne) and utilizes a traditional Scottish folk tune for its musical score. It was written sometime after the Battle of Culloden and has experienced transmogrifications over the years. A version of it was sung by (the late) Irish singer/Tommy Makem who emigrated from Ireland to the United States and spent many years living in Dover, New Hampshire. A prolific songwriter, some of his original songs have been presumed to have an older Irish tradition. He performed solo and with the Clancy Brothers.

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Another song linked to Prince Charles and the Jacobite rebellion of 1745 is most commonly referred to simply as “Loch Lomond.” Viewed as a song of lost love that states that two people will never meet again a verse in the original poem says this: “For my love’s heart brake in twa, when she kenned the Cause’s fa / And she sleeps where there’s never nane shall waken.”

One interpretation of these words is that a true love’s heart will break in two as a result of knowing the “Cause’s” father, perhaps “Charlie?,” father of the Jacobite uprising. The recurrent theme of the chorus is that “they” will never meet again [in Scotland]. The reference to “high road” and “low road” also have an in-built historical meaning according to the following online resource:

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The aunt of Robert Cuellar found the printed textile at Woodward and Lothrup, a former high-end department store located in Washington, D.C. In 1973. That day, she purchased the framed textile believed to be a handkerchief or neckerchief framed under glass.

As an aside, the history of the store is interesting in itself. Samuel Walter Woodward (1848-1917) and Alvin Mason Lothrup (1847-1912) founded the store in Chelsea, Massachusetts but later moved its location to the capitol in 1880. Eventually, the store was sold for $277 million dollar in 1985 to a man who was a shopping mall entrepreneur.

In late October 2011, the present owner contacted me to ask if I knew the country of origin or could provide any other clues as to the date of this handkerchief/neckerchief.

The owner previously consulted another (unnamed) textile specialist who thought that it might have been manufactured between 1780 and 1820, a broad range of dates. I considered the possibility that this textile is a reproduction and since it was purchased during the twentieth century at a department store location, we cannot rule out that possibility although it does not seem likely. Several other textile experts have looked at this item and believe there is no reason to doubt that it may be authentic, made from the 1810′s-1840s, according to one source.

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For me, the textile has sent me on a research quest to find answers. So far, nothing definitive about this textile’s provenance has been forthcoming. With no supporting evidence, this has been my own trip of supposition. However, I uncovered some interesting facts. It is interesting to note that one online site mentions that Bonnie Prince Charlie is second only to Jesus in the number of times he is mentioned in writings of the English language. He is also referred to as the “Young Chevalier,” probably due to his connections with France. The novel Waverly by Walter Scott is based on his story. The book buy generic cialis online without a prescription by St. George Tucker provides the lyrics to yet another song dedicated to “Charlie.”

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The original song has three more verses and an additional verse, added by a bard, is featured in the Bacon book. Today, this book is available via print-on-demand by the Expresso Book Machine. See:
Prices range from USD $10.25 – $12 dollars (plus shipping).

At the very least, I believe that one could safely call this textile a “conversational print,” a term that is typically given to any textile that would evoke a “conversation.” If this is indeed an early textile, it was made via a type of intaglio work related to etching in which fine lines could be incorporated or if this stems from a date later than 1783 when Thomas Bell in Scotland invented cylinder/roller printing using engraved rollers to print on cotton. The engravings were all done by hand until the nineteenth century!

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As to country of provenance, was this textile manufacturer in France, England or Scotland? All three countries are likely possibilities. Right now, I have only found clues. I am wondering if there is information printed on the edge of the textile, as suggested by one individual I contacted. Perhaps, some wording is currently obscured by the frame. The name of the manufacturer or country of origin may be printed there or possibly a date. If more information is uncovered via further investigation by the owner of this textile or a reader’s direct knowledge, or the “find” of a photo in a resource book, or some other discovery, I shall update this file. I have learned a great deal so far (although nothing to back my initial impression). As always, I am always appreciative of the chance to try to learn more about wonderful pieces held in collections. If anyone has more information about this particular textile, please contact me at:

Update on 11/4/2011: Robert Cuellar took the textile out of the frame, as I suggested, and states, “I found that this handkerchief is marked Williamsburg Fabric by Williamsburg Restoration, Inc.” Williamsburg Restoration CW 4xx is a trademark of the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation which creates “decorative textile fabric piece goods.” We now have our answer that this is a 20th century textile!

My latest book will be available very shortly! It can be ordered at a pre-release price now from any number of online booksellers, including amazon.ca,, amazon,uk, amazon.au and amazon.fr.

Copyrighted by Patricia Cummings. All rights reserved.
owner,
Concord, NH

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Saturday, October 29th, 2011

This is the same advice that I provide as a guide to eBay sellers of military collectibles known as Sweetheart and Mother Pillows. I decided to share the information here, as well.

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Again, I have taken the time to fully research all aspects of the history and care of these specialty collectibles. My findings, thoughts and advice are included in my latest book, buy generic cialis online without a prescription, available soon!

My best,

Patricia Cummings

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Monday, June 13th, 2011

One never knows what textile item will just be waiting to be discovered in some remote and unexpected location, far from its point of origin. Such was the case when I recently found a Mexican dress to purchase. It is woven and had large red stylistic bird images on the front and back of the dress. The lines are very simple with straight vertical edges in “a one size would fit most” style. Being a fan of international textiles, I couldn’t resist adding this to my collection.

dress
A dress purchased some years ago by the aunt of a quilt shop owner who traveled to Mexico

Another interesting find is a one layer affair. I have no idea of its origins but suspect perhaps India? The flowers have been printed onto cloth but the “registration” of colors is very inexact for the printovers. If anyone has any ideas about where this originated, please let me know! (pat at quiltersmuse dot com)

one layer textile from India (?)
Colorful, floral one layer textile with one vertical, pieced seam and lovely borders

A third textile I am sharing is one that I made some time ago as an evening bag. It is based on a photo I once saw in a magazine. I used variegated rayon thread and a Japanese pattern of interlocking circles (Sashiko style, only by machine).

Sashiko evening bag
Sashiko evening bag

Hope you enjoyed seeing these three textiles.

My best,

Pat

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Sunday, February 6th, 2011

We are always happy to receive mail even when it is sent to correct a misstatement. Yesterday, we received the following note from Nancy Sreenan:

Hi Pat,

I think you wrote the following on quilter’s muse:

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The underlined claim above is buy generic cialis online without a prescription–the only way to harvest the wool from the Tibetan antelope, the chiru, is to kill the animal. The soft fleece is still highly prized and is part of an illegal trade which threatens the chiru with extinction, despite the chiru’s status as an endangered species. I’m afraid that such misinformation contributes to the extinction of the chiru. See the following sites for more info:

Thanks for reading this.
Nancy Sreenan

We are happy to know the difference, Nancy, and have corrected the file about the where you found the misstatement. We would certainly never advocate killing an animal that is on the endangered species list, just for its fur. It is good to know the difference and I am ALWAYS happy to correct the record. Thanks again!

Patricia Cummings

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Tuesday, August 24th, 2010

Since writing the initial file, still in place below, I have been sent some lovely photos of the collection of Victorian Banners recently sold at auction by , Fairfield, Maine.

17 Victorian trade banners

Seventeen Victorian trade banners

Close-up of

A close-up view of the “Indebted” Victorian trade banner

Bands of temperance

“Bands of Temperance”

Strike while the iron is hot

“Strike while the iron is hot.”

Sailing ship

A sailing ship

Victorian banner

A shoemaker’s banner

A second shoemaker's banner

A second shoemaker’s banner

Original Post

Much to my amazement today, the mailman delivered a note from a friend in the mid-West which contained a news clipping from the buy generic cialis online without a prescription dated August 20, 2010. In a column by Eve M. Kahn, it is noted that 17 rare Victorian Guild banners that are fringed will be going on the auction block in Maine on August 26. These banners were most recently in the collection of the Maine Charitable Mechanic Association in Portland, Maine who is selling them to raise money for much needed repairs to their building. The group cites lack of adequate climate control for the objects as one of the reasons for the sale.

Each banner is very unique. In looking at an overall photo of these items, as shown in a photo at the site of the auctioneer, James D. Julia, Inc. of Fairfield, Maine, I jotted down some of the sayings that served to advertise various businesses:

1) “United in the Bands of Temperance we are Crowned with Honor.”

2) “May our carriage ever be: UPRIGHT
God speed the Plough”

3) “Bound by the Hoops of Economy
Driven by the Hands of Industry”

4) “Moulded from Patterns of Goodness & Truth
the Casts of our character need neither
Soldering nor Brazing.”

5) “Strength, Convenience, Beauty,
the great desiderata
in Civil Architecture.”

6) “When History’s page
no date can give
Of Empires overthrown.
Our country’s deeds
and ours shall live
In Monumental Stone.

There are others. If you are interested, you may want to take a look at the auctioneer’s website. The lot is expected to sell at $125,000. or more.

I am so appreciative when friends send me interesting tidbits of textile history like this. The general public is dismally unaware of our collective and rich textile history.

As ever,

Patricia Cummings

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Thursday, September 24th, 2009

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Spinning and weaving are older than metalworking or even pottery, but it took millennia to develop usable woolly sheep. In this colorfully illustrated talk, Dr Elizabeth Barber traces the early history of the fiber crafts, showing how the place of sheep, wool, and patterned woolen textiles changed repeatedly as innovations in technology and changes in the sheep themselves took place.

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“Cotswolds Through the Ages” – 3:00 p.m. Sunday, Sept. 27, 2009

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Home of The Big E From the start of my career I had a great interest in Oriental Carpets and rugs. I studied them in great detail. I was keen to know everything there was to know about them and particularly the wool used, and my interest in wool really stems from my early study of these beautiful hand made items.

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The Big E runs Sept. 18 – Oct. 4, 2009. Both of the talks described above will be presented in the Moses Auditorium.

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Sunday, August 23rd, 2009

Imagine yourself in 1944. Your loved one is in Italy, in the military, called to duty in World War II. You know that he is thinking of you, while you are worrying about him. How can he express his love for you at a time when there is no Internet, and few other means of available and affordable communication, except for mail grams? Why, he sends you textile “souvenirs.” In this brief article, we will look at four such items bestowed upon Louise Traunstein by (the late) Russ Traunstein, who served in the Air Force.

1944 Pillow Souvenir from Italy

The first piece is a pillow cover, complete with a lavender back with part of the right hand side left open so that stuffing could be slipped in. The “writing” and most of the motif work is rendered in rayon thread and a continuous, machine-made chain stitch. We see two facing (abstract) birds in the center, and a star composed of simulated filling knots and an orange circular center filled with orange knots. Light blue rayon threads look like today’s meander quilting. (There is nothing new under the sun).

The writing at the top says in English, “Souvenir … Italy,” while “1944″ appears, almost illegibly, at the bottom. Within the center is a number, perhaps “15.” If anyone knows the significance of that number, I would love to know!

Lace that appears to have been made by machine and which has a sheen to it, as if it, too, is rayon, features a simulated hemstitch effect, closest to the pillow top. The background may be cotton velveteen. It has a low nap and is soft to the touch.

Italian hankies - WWII

Two Italian souvenir, ochre color, hankies in rayon, with chain stitching in variegated, rayon thread, and differing lace edge treatments

These two small hankies, (design area approximately 4″ square) have writing that I cannot discern. Rayon not a practical fiber for a hankie because the fibers are not absorbent. Clearly, these were made only to be “souvenirs.”

Souvenir Italia - orange flowers

This bright pillow cover is amazingly cheerful with its bright orange flowers, again rendered in chain stitch; and their yellow “stems.” The words “Souvenir” and “Italia” are worked with variegated, rayon, chain stitch, by machine. The wide lace is romantic, dreamy, and enchanting … and also made by machine. On the back, the lace extends beyond the seam, sewn with white thread, in machine stitches, about 1/4″ to jet over the green acrylic background.

This is a very pretty piece, as are the others. Sixty-five years after it was acquired, it is showing a few stains, perhaps from storage in a wooden drawer, without a barrier of protection from wood acids.

Aluminum foil could be used to prevent damage of this kind.

Nonetheless, these pieces are remembrances of a time of uncertainty. They represent a period of wistful longing for home and hearth, as well as the love felt by military men for those left at home, those they knew were wishing and praying for their safe return.

I would like to thank my friend, Louise Traunstein, for sharing these pieces with us. The good news is that Russ came home from the war, and they lived many years together as man and wife, until his death in 1997. A poet, he published a volume of his poems that is currently out of print.

Mrs. Traunstein is heavily involved with writing the newsletter for the Groton Historical Society and has made significant historical contributions to her “adopted” town. A former teacher for more than 30 years, she is always willing to share information! Thanks, Louise!

All photographs by James Cummings

Letter to the Editor:

Hi Pat,

The photos of the souvenirs came out lovely and yes they were stored in wooden drawers. Amazing what you don’t know about environmental effects on materials, if not an expert.

The 15 represents the 15th Air Force. I don’t know what this means in regards to the total Air Force.

He served in the 99th Bomb Group … the 346th Bombardment Squadron.

Jim might know how the 15th fits into the total. I believe the 15th started its journey in Africa and then worked its way up toward Germany.

Russ was based in Foggia and in Florence, Italy. Served about a year and a few months longer.

Thanks for the acknowledgment.

Take care,

Louise

Patricia Cummings
– where there are many more articles about “Sweetheart” and “Mother” pillows, from World War II

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Sunday, November 16th, 2008

A recent magazine article that I wrote featured a C.C.C. Mother pillow, owned by a retired professor who lent it to us for the purpose of photography. You ask, “What is the C.C.C.?” The Civilian Conservation Corps was an organization for young men during the Great Depression. They accomplished all kinds of feats such as planting trees, pruning and maintaining tree plantations, building bridges, roads, and buildings, and doing much more.

This was a “make work” type of program under the FDR administration, designed to provide employment. Men had to meet certain qualifications and be of good moral character to join. They were paid, but most of their allotment was sent home, leaving them with a small amount for personal spending in the camp store.

In the state of New Hampshire, there were quite a few C.C.C. camps. I was thrilled to visit the museum associated with one of them at what is now called Bear Brook State Park. My association with the park goes back to when I was three years old. In the family album, there are photos of my brother and I, and my sister and I, on the public beach there. Later, I served as an assistant cook at summer 4-H camp, when I was in high school, and another year, I was a Camp Counselor. In high school, I camped with my parents in another area of the park, and when I was very small, I climbed the Fire Tower at the Park, with my Dad.

I recently learned that the main public pond at Bear Brook was excavated by C.C.C. members with picks and axes. If one swims in the water in a bathing suit with a white lining, that lining will turn red. This can be attributed to the underlying tree roots at the bottom of the man-made, spring fed pond. They leach tannic acid, a harmless ingredient (to humans) also found in tea.

The beautiful bathhouse there was built with granite stones, quarried in nearby Hooksett, and set together by the C.C.C.

Lately, learning more about the C.C.C. has been of great interest to me. When I received more photos of “Mother” pillows, etc. from an Interpretive Specialist for the National Parks Service, I was even more intrigued. You can see .

Whenever I mention the initials “C.C.C.” to anyone my age, no one knows what I mean. I have to explain. This was a Depression Era, stop-gap measure, to counteract the effects of poverty.

Yesterday, in speaking to an international conference, President Bush stated that if something is not done about the economy, we could go into a Depression greater than the Great Depression. That is an upsetting thought, and I think that most of us feel at the mercy of those who have the majority of wealth in America. We want those individuals to figure out a problem that “the little guy” did not cause.

Sometimes, we have to look back before we can look ahead. History is so important, and learning from the past is doubly so, because if no meaningful connections are made, then we have not gained anything. We will just keep repeating wrong decisions that cost lives, money, and quality of existence, again and again.

The C.C.C. tells a great story of America. We always rise to the cause and do what needs to be done, in good times and bad. With the right attitudes and some elbow grease, we will get through the current economic crisis. The young men of the C.C.C. may not be recognized today, in a society who has forgotten the hardship lessons of America’s past, in the wake of prosperity. The work of these young, unmarried men was vital to feeding their families of origin, at the time. The organization lasted from the early 1930s to 1942, and many of the men went off to serve in World War II, having been given confidence and self-discipline by their experiences in the Civilian Conservation Corps, a para-militaristic organization. When we look to the early twentieth century, we see many who sacrificed, again and again. We could all take a lesson.

With best wishes,

Patricia Cummings

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Wednesday, March 12th, 2008

Old aprons today catch our fancy. They speak of bygone times when it was a hardship to do laundry and when good dresses were kept clean for best. Of course, in those days, women did wear dresses, not pantsuits, jeans, or a blouses and slacks. The amount of time and effort put into making a pretty apron is sometimes mind boggling. For me, the whole subject of aprons will require more study. Last summer, I washed and pressed 80 old aprons, so I guess you could say that I’ve seen them up close and personal. Here is one of them.

apron
Notice the triadic color combination of red, yellow, and blue in the cheerful-looking apron seen above. Unlike old quilts that sometimes have tags on them, more often than not, former owners of aprons are not identified. Look at the fancy edge lace, the gathered waist, and the long ties.

I know of one person who asked for her grandmother’s aprons and then cut out the good spots to make a quilt. That is certainly one way to remember grandma.

Since they are used less today, aprons from the past take on more significance, pointing to a time of more domesticity when supper was not at a fast food chain or other eatery, but homemade and served hot on the kitchen table. I love old aprons whether they are appliqud, have pockets, are smocked, are over the shoulder kinds, or are the old fancy and delicate pinafores. To me, they are important “pieces of the past.”

Patricia Cummings

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Tuesday, March 4th, 2008

There is no textile more “shrouded” in mystery than the Turin Shroud, a 14′ x 4′ piece of linen believed to have been used to wrap the body of Christ, after the crucifixion. The woven cloth has been subjected to scientific tests as sindonologists (those who study the shroud) have sought to prove validity of the claim, or to disprove it, once and for all.

A book in my library is called, buy generic cialis online without a prescription by William Meacham (Lulu, 2005). The author is an archeaologist at the University of Hong Kong who claims that scientific investigations have all but ruined the Christian relic.

On Easter Saturday, the British Broadcasting Company will present a program that discusses recent findings and how the textile has been recently photographed in “high definition” for the first time. This sounds like a fascinating presentation. One can only hope that those of us “across the pond” will be able to view the show sometime.

For more information, see an article by Rossella Lorenzi, buy generic cialis online without a prescription: and, for a brief book review, visit:

If you “google” the “Discovery Channel” and key in the search words, “Turin Shroud,” you will be able to view video clips from a professor who has studied this topic extensively and hear about some of his astounding discoveries.

Patricia Cummings

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Sunday, November 11th, 2007

Inspired by all of the television commercials for “RLS” and other acronyms for diseases for which one can take a pill and possibly make the symptoms abate, today I have coined a new acronym. Now, pay close attention. First, let’s discuss the symptoms.

When you pass a quilt shop, do you have the urge to visit? Do you then buy fabric that you like, just to take it home, put it on a shelf, or just “pet it?” This is one of the first clues that you might be coming down with ITAS!

Next, when you drive near an antique shop, do you go in, scouring the place for old quilt blocks, quilt tops, and quilts, ragged or not? These precious items are orphans and need a home desperately. If you rise to the call, you have ITAS.

Do you then go home and get on your computer and READ about textiles. Do you immediately rush to eBay to find further examples and then order some of them? If so, this is another example of ITAS at work.

Do friends seek you out to give you the gift of old quilts because they know that they will be given a “good home?” Ah, if so, they will never suffer from the same syndrome that you have.

Okay, what is this ITAS anyhow? Why, it is … drum roll … buy generic cialis online without a prescription buy generic cialis online without a prescription!!! That’s right! Incurable. That means that there is no found cure yet, although it may be a situation with which scientists can distract themselves for awhile, trying to find just the right pill. They seem to have found a pill for everything else, and taken all together, the pills have the potential to annihilate someone, so that, indeed, if the person does have ITAS, I suppose that would be the ultimate cure!

If you have suspected that those uncontrollable urges you have to acquire textiles are just random, think again. It’s called ITAS, and you heard it here first. I declare myself as the first person to have ever recognized and named this malady, so if you use my acronym, ITAS, please provide appropriate credit to the discoverer of buy generic cialis online without a prescription. THANK YOU!

Patricia Cummings

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Friday, October 5th, 2007

This past week, as a “mystery object,” I have featured a small case on the front page of our website. I found this item to purchase recently, in a small New Hampshire town whose name I cannot remember.

mystery carrying case

As is usually the case, textiles are often undervalued. By that, I mean they are not assigned much value by sellers, and are considered common perhaps because they are not “fine art.” Most antique dealers don’t know beans about them. That can be an advantage to the buyer, in some instances.

My story continues. When I spotted this embroidered linen item, I surmised, from the way that the embroidery stitches were executed, that it dated to the 19th century. A ballpark “circa” date would be 1895. I could also see that it appears as fresh and clean as the day it was constructed. The case represents a lot of work, including the handmade buttonholes worked with a shiny thread that I assume to be silk. Intrigued as to its intended purpose, I turned to my readers for their suggestions, and I also queried members of my outline stitch embroidery list.

Here’s what they said:

1) The little case might have been made to hold hankies, or embroidered table centerpieces, or doilies. With the configuration of the case being round, any of these items could have been rolled to store them inside.

2) The case could have been part of a wedding trousseau, a decorative gift item.

3) This could be a holder for gloves.

4) The case might have been used to carry a comb and a brush.

5) Perhaps, lingerie was stored in the case.

(Actually, I think it is too small for that purpose, as it is only about 10″ long).

6) Maybe it held a scented pillow, something to carry along when traveling.

Additional suggestions:

7) a hosiery holder

8) a jewelry holder

9) a sewing tote

10) a case to hold hair ribbons

11) a small case for mending, while traveling

The idea of this case having been used as a travel accessory had crossed my mind already. That answer seems have been right under my nose, all along. The word “traveling” caused me to remember carrying cases that the Canterbury Shakers made to give to Sisters at Sabbathday Lake, Maine. When Jim and I visited the site, to take photos and gather more information to write an article we did for magazine, we were shown two of these bags.

A photo that shows one of these carriage bags can be seen on our website. I am more and more convinced that the antique bag I found to purchase is either Shaker-made, or is based on the basic design of the Shaker Carriage Bag.

The circular embroidery that adorns each end, and the embroidery around the perimeter of the other straight edges, is a clue that leads to that conclusion. The shape of the bag is another clue, although if I remember correctly, the closures for the Shaker bags we saw were quite different. It is curious that the same initial/monogram “H” appears on both bags.

What is a little baffling is that while there are two Shaker communities in New Hampshire (these are now museums in Enfield and in Canterbury), the antique shop is not in close proximity to either of them. Of course, people do move, and the item was created more than a century ago, so I guess anything is possible. I just feel very lucky to have spotted this treasure amid other less desirable textiles that had been thrown into a basket.

To see the Shaker carriage bag, please visit our file: .

We will never know, with certainty, the origins or the wanderings of the little bag still shown on our website, but there is a certain joy in making these kinds of potential connections.

Enjoy the weekend!

Pat

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Monday, August 13th, 2007

Today, I wrote a summary of what I know about hooked rugs (which is not a lot!). You can read the (relatively short) file, with great photos.

small hooked rug from the Lewis collection

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Monday, May 28th, 2007

Whether someone is a textile fanatic or not, it is a common truth that we all use textiles in our daily lives. What would life be like, without sheets, towels, dishcloths, wedding gowns, baby outfits, blue jeans, and so much more?

More than anything else, people want to dress well for special occasions, and even for daily wear. How we dress can actually make us look better. For example, a jersey with horizontal stripes will not look very becoming on a very wide body. In that case, vertical stripes are in order. Conversely, if one is thin, then horizontal stripes will look great!

Certain colors look better with specific skin colors. While I love the color orange, in a quilt, I do not look good wearing orange near my face. It makes me look washed out, and it does not complement my pinkish complexion and hazel eyes.

No matter if we are careful in our choices of color or not, they do have a psychological effect on those around us. I really enjoy it when Jim wears a blue shirt or a gray one. Those colors suit him and match his calm, serene, uneasily riled, personality. Whether we realize it or not, the colors of clothes cause a profound response in the viewer.

As I started out to say, clothes and textiles are with us, from cradle to grave. Some items are ornate like smocked and embroidered dresses for little girls; others are strictly utilitarian, like tablecloths and embroidered dish towels.

I guess I’ve been very lucky over the years in being able to find unusual, old textiles to study and to discuss in my writings. It’s been a lot of fun learning about the specific categories of old textiles, domestic and foreign, and their history. Clothing and textile-related topics are inexhaustible and I have a hunch that I will not run out of interesting things to study, regarding all of that.

So, it is with great joy that I continue my quest daily to learn more about this exciting subject of textiles: how, when, where, and why they were made, and for whom; and historical trends and connections.

Have a great Tuesday!

Pat Cummings

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Sunday, April 29th, 2007

Whenever we go antique hunting, inevitably, we come across a large cardboard box in which the dealer has thrown a potpourri of this and that kind of textile. There could be doilies, old kitchen towels, lace, quilt tops, Redwork, you name it. Usually, items “displayed” in this manner don’t amount to much. They could have torn edges, may be stained, or look undesirable in a wrinkled state. Sometimes, one gets lucky.

That was the case when Jim found the “Angels Sing Thee to Thy Rest,” (casket cover for a child?), in Maine. We bought it, I took it home and washed and pressed it, and proceeded to copy the design to make a pattern, researching its meaning, in the meantime. My research led me to a book titled, buy generic cialis online without a prescription, in which the author shows a color photo of angels as rendered in a painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds (1723-1792). The placement and the faces of the Redwork image look much like those in the painting. The saying on the piece is from Shakespeare.

One never knows what one will uncover when one opens his/her mind to the possibilities. This incident just reminds me, once again, that all of material culture does not happen in a vacuum. Items are related to words, and often to the deeds or preceding works of others.

For more information see:

I have a few of these Redwork patterns left @$8.49 each (that includes shipping.) If you’d like one, please contact me at: for payment details. Paypal, U.S. checks and money orders accepted.
Patricia

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