Archive for the ‘World Textiles’ Category

Hmong “Happy Fisherman” Pants

Monday, November 16th, 2009

Currently, two Hmong “Happy Fisherman” Pants are offered on eBay by “zootube”

Hmong fisherman pants, example 1

This is auction #130344035302 Hmong fisherman pants

Hmong fisherman pants - example 2

This is auction #130340681357 Hmong fisherman pants example 2

Zach Fauth has been traveling in Burma, Laos, Cambodia and Thailand for 10 years now, collecting and vending textiles. These two pairs of "Happy Fisherman" pants are completely handmade and hand loomed from cotton/hemp.

They feature both piecework and patchwork designs. One of the designs is "Elephant's Foot," rendered in cross-stitch. I have read that the colorful patchwork design, repeated on these objects, can represent the "altar" that is present in every Hmong home in southeast Asia.

For more information about the Hmong and their traditional needlework, please visit: Hmong Textile Art: The Tie That Binds A Culture by Patricia L. Cummings.

Speaking of Molas – Here’s a Special One

Saturday, November 7th, 2009

Barbara Campbell, a quilt designer and friend who lives in New Jersey, found a mola to purchase at a garage sale a few years ago. Like one of the molas in my collection, it is framed. This one is double-framed under glass and its new owner states that “it appears to float on the kitchen wall.” Framing is certainly one way to help preserve textiles, and framing under glass is the most desirable situation, if a textile is to hang in a kitchen where, unseen grease and smoke from cooking can do long-term damage.

owl mola

Keep in mind that molas are always made in pairs, as nearly duplicates, as is possible to make, by the Kuna tribal women (and men) who produce them. Often, we see molas for sale that have uneven, or ragged edges. That is due to the fact that they have already “lived a life” as part of a now disassembled blouse (one mola panel on the lower front, and one on the lower back of the blouse). Often, flimsy, see-through fabrics of man-made fibers are used for the upper part of the blouse, as well as the sleeves.

The Kuna Indians have found it profitable to disassemble old and unwanted blouses and tourists do no seem to mind the fact that they are purchasing used goods. Of course, that is not always the situation.

Nonetheless, the artistry of the mola is desirable in terms of art and symbolism. Often, the Spanish words that appear on molas are misspelled because Spanish is NOT the native language of this native Indian tribe.

I have mentioned recently the links to files on my website, for more information. Rather than hunt them down again, I invite you to use the site navigation bar on our website, or else, scroll back to previous blogs about molas that contain the links.

Thank you, Barbara, for sharing yet another mola example with us. Molas are like Halloween candy corn. You can’t have just one. I can bet that you will catch the mola “bug,” Barbara, and before long, you will collect others!

You can visit Barbara’s two online sites: a website, “Love in Stitches,” and a blog, “Defining the Inner Muse.

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Kuna Indians/Mola Makers Seen In Their Own Habitat: Archipelagos Off the Coast of Panama

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

This morning, I visited YouTube and just realized that there are quite a few videos of collected molas as well as movies of those who make them, on the archipelago sites off the coast of Panama. I enjoyed watching native Kuna Indian women, with their traditional nose rings and bare feet, making molas and wearing them. Molas are a traditional part of their everyday wear. It is only when tourists began visiting these people, in their remote corner of the universe, that a pattern of trading was established.

I have written extensively about the Kuna Indians and have enjoyed seeing an exhibit at the University of Connecticut, and many years later, one at Dartmouth College. We produced several articles for print publications. Currently, there are two related files on our website: Quilter’s Muse Publications: “A History of Molas,” “Molas and their Makers,” and others. Just key in the word “mola” into the site search feature on the front page of our website and you will be able to access all the articles in which molas are mentioned.”

back of mola blouse

This photo shows the back of a former mola (blouse). The geometric patterns of this piece are repeating designs, as you can see. It is amazing to see the extent of precision that mola-makers bring to their work.

My favorite musical video on YouTube, on this topic of the Kuna Indians, is called “Memorias de Kuna Yala.” Various villages are featured, as well as celebrations. One is called the “Conmemoracion de Revolcion Tule.” (I cannot put in the appropriate accents for Spanish, in this particular blog interface).

In the bloody Tule Rebellion of 1925, all whites were killed or expelled from Kuna territory. It is interesting to note that the Kuna flag consists of three color bands: a solid yellow fabric with a black swastika flanked by two solid red colors. Clearly, their swastika is not linked to Hitler’s Germany. For more information about the history of the swastika symbol, please visit our website file on that topic.

The names of other YouTube videos that I viewed are:

1) Mola Art from the Republic of Panama
2) Mola Arts and Crafts of Panama
3) Kuna Yala montage
4) Mola Art from Panama
5) The Spirit of the Mola
6) San Blas Indians
7) Kuna Dance

One website that features molas is: www.molaartandcraft.com

I hope that you enjoy this information as much as I did!

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Egyptian Wall Hanging

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

Egyptian wall hanging

Today, a reader sent us this image of an Egyptian wall hanging. The person has owned this for fifty years and is now wondering how old it might be, and seeks any other information about it.

If anyone here is an Egyptologist and would like to comment, please write either a direct comment to this e-mail, or write to me privately at: pat@quiltersmuse.com and I’ll pass along the message.

We always enjoy seeing other people’s textiles and certainly answer any questions, as we can.

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Textile Talks To Be Featured at the “Big E”

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

Press Release from Eastern States Exposition

“Woolgathering Through the Millennia” – 3:00 p.m. Friday, Sept. 25, 2009

Elizabeth Wayland Barber – CA

Spinning and weaving are older than metalworking or even pottery, but it took millennia to develop usable woolly sheep. In this colorfully illustrated talk, Dr Elizabeth Barber traces the early history of the fiber crafts, showing how the place of sheep, wool, and patterned woolen textiles changed repeatedly as innovations in technology and changes in the sheep themselves took place.

Dr. Elizabeth Barber is the author of many popular books on the history of textiles, including Women’s Work: the First 20,000 Years.

“Cotswolds Through the Ages” – 3:00 p.m. Sunday, Sept. 27, 2009

Rob Harvey Long, UK

Home of The Big E From the start of my career I had a great interest in Oriental Carpets and rugs. I studied them in great detail. I was keen to know everything there was to know about them and particularly the wool used, and my interest in wool really stems from my early study of these beautiful hand made items.

Since joining The Cotswold Sheep Society, and reading about the fleeces being called “The Golden Fleece,” I have been wondering how this came about. My search has led me to some fascinating discoveries which I will be sharing with you.

I will also be talking about the Medieval wool trade in The Cotswolds and the Italian connection, and finally discussing the Cotswold Sheep Society in the 21st century and what the future may hold for us.

We look forward to seeing you!

The Big E runs Sept. 18 – Oct. 4, 2009. Both of the talks described above will be presented in the Moses Auditorium.

This public announcement is brought to you by Quilter’s Muse Publications.

Sandra LeBeau Discusses Manchester Mills at Campton, NH Historical Society

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

Sandra LeBeau, Ph.D. presented the topic, “The Mills of Manchester, NH and Manchester, England,” at a meeting on September 21, 2009, hosted by the Campton Historical Society, Campton, NH, in conjunction with the New Hampshire Humanities Council. The speaker, self-described as a “labor historian,” revealed similarities about old mills in both cities called “Manchester.” She came to know much about those particular mills, as a result of living near them.

Mill Girl Statue, Millyard Museum

Mill Girl Statue in Manchester, NH at the site of the former Amoskeag Mills. With the “mill girls,” this operation would not have prospered. photo by James Cummings

Her talk compares the pre-Industrial era to the Age of Industrialization that was based on the model set forth by England. She briefly alluded to the name “Slater.” To further clarify her reference, Samuel Slater is called “The Father of the Industrial Revolution.” He left England for America, with the plans for making textile machinery, held only in his memory bank. If written plans were found on his person, he could have been tried for industrial espionage, imprisoned or worse.

Slater set up a mill in Pawtucket, Rhode Island to spin cotton. As spinning a fiber is just one of the preliminary steps to making cloth, his mill led to the creation of weaving mills in Massachusetts. The Slater Mill Museum and Gift Shop are wonderful to visit.

There is so much information related to Mill History, I am absolutely certain that it is impossible to include all of the details in one talk, or one article, or even one book. The speaker did a great job of staying on topic. In passing, she mentioned other mills such as those of Lowell, MA and Harrisville, NH.

Harrisville Canal photo by James Cummings

Canal at the Harrisville Mill complex, Harrisville, NH, where woolen textiles were manufactures. photo by James Cummings

Even though I have read a lot about the mills of New England, and have visited many of them, have seen their videos and exhibits, and have learned about their workers, the joy for me last night was in hearing another historian speak about a familiar subject. The audience, including me, added a lot of comments, observations, and questions, and everyone seemed very enthusiastic about this presentation.

Of burning interest are the factors that led to the demise of the New England mills, actually a combination of factors. Many thanks to Sandra LeBeau. I am sure that this talk only whetted folks’ interest to learn more or brought the subject to mind for others.

For additional online reading, there are files on our website about the mills in Lowell and Pawtucket, and the Amoskeag, Cocheco, and Harrisville Mills of New Hampshire. Just go to the Index page, scroll down to the Site Navigation Information, and key in one of those words, after placing your cursor in the search box.

Patricia Cummings

Intriguing Photos of Egyptian Textiles Sent by Reader

Monday, September 21st, 2009

After reading my online file about Egyptian appliqué, a woman named “Margot” sent me 10 photos of her Egyptian textile collection, yesterday. She calls herself “an inadvertent collector of Egyptian appliqué” and found her pieces to collect, in Maine and online beginning in the 1980s.

Although she apologized for the “amateurish” look of her photos, I was able to work with them a bit, with a photo editing program, and I believe you will enjoy seeing the images. There is only one that is cropped off at the end, due to a streak of light. They are wonderful!

A lot of symbolic imagery appears in the following designs. At the end of this photo essay, I will list some books in my personal collection that are helpful in identifying the meaning of the symbols. Identification of the symbols would be a good project for home-schooled children and others who are interested in learning more about Egyptian art, always a fascinating subject!

long Egyptian textile

archer

donkey kneeling

man on horseback carrying flag

another panel

beige colors

orange camel

8th piece

9th piece

final piece

In addition, Dover Publications sells a CD-ROM & Book called Egyptian Designs for MacIntosh and Windows. No affiliation.

I hope you have enjoyed this file. Many thanks to Margot for sharing her collection with us.

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Mi Amiga de La Argentina Cuida El Arte de “Quilting”

Saturday, September 12th, 2009

Gloria Tanquilevich loves crafting and quilts. I have known her for some time now, having met her, early on, in a quilting chat room. She probably owns every possible download for paper piecing that has been available online for the last 10 years, as that method has enchanted her. She lives in Argentina and is a teacher, by trade and by temperament. Recently, she converted her garage into a usable sewing area to accommodate the women who want to learn quilting from her, after seeing her beautiful quilts and pillows. She is energetic, creative, and I’m happy to say, my friend.

Gloria a few years ago

Gloria, a few years ago

Within the last few months, she has set up a blog, “Quilting in Argentina.” In two recent entries, “Rescate Histórico I” and “Rescate Histórico II,” she shows photos of “old” patchwork, done by Ida Justina Obhola, a woman with German roots, who has enjoyed piecing small rectangular quilts and nine-patch pillows and seat cushions, using scraps from dresses, blouses, and other textiles. Gloria interviewed Ida with her works that seem like antiques in a country with no strong tradition of patchwork or quilting as we think of it.

To buy fabric, Gloria enjoys trekking to Buenos Aires and making a day of shopping at the one quilt shop there. In the past, she has ordered from Keepsake Quilting but mail order is cumbersome for financial considerations of money exchange.

From viewing Gloria’s blog, it is clear to see that she has eager students. I love watching people actualize their potential and follow their dreams. Gloria epitomizes a person who starts with ideas and brings them to fruition, if only by her contagious enthusiasm. Buena suerte, mi amiga, y que Dios te bendiga. (Good luck, my friend, and may God bless you).

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Orange Mola

Monday, August 3rd, 2009

The Kuna Indians who live on the archipelagos off the coast of Panama have a native tradition of creating molas. The word “mola” means blouse. To create these blouses, which are customary, everyday attire for the women, two mola panels are constructed, one for the front and one for the back of the garment. These designs are approximately the same, but never exactly congruent.

Usually, news articles about molas show only one mola panel, although they are always constructed in pairs. For the tourist trade, molas are often de-constructed, and that is why there appears to be this lapse in cultural context and continuity.

I thought it would be fun to show you a Kuna-made blouse. All cloth, of any kind, that is incorporated into works sewn by the Kuna people, comes from “somewhere else,” and is taken in trade.

The fabric in this blouse is one that I do not recognize because I am most familiar with the natural fibers used in quilts: linen, silk, wool and cotton.

Isn’t this color Orange wonderfully exciting to the eye? The fabric at the bottom, on both sides, has been cut, making the edges frayed. I can’t help but wonder if this was done purposely to make the blouse unable to be worn, perhaps due to some tribal superstition.

mola blouse

mola blouse - collection of Patricia Cummings

Hope you enjoyed seeing this blouse. I purchased it, just to show you!

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications – where you can read lots more about Molas!

Ralli Quilts and Kanthas from Pakistan and India

Saturday, July 25th, 2009

textile from India

Textile marked “made in India – 100% cotton”

Last week, I purchased an antique textile from India. It is heavily appliquéd in mostly colors that are not vibrant, but tend toward gray and beige. Elephants and camels are heavily represented, an indication that this piece is not Islamic made. According to one source, “living beings are not usually represented in Islamic Art.”

More than likely, this is a ralli quilt. The name “ralli” is thought to be derivative of the word, “ralannu,” a verb that means to mix, to join, or to connect. A number of name variations for “ralli” exist, and ralli quilts are made in Rajasthan. As is typical of rallis, patchwork (a sawtooth appliqué design) adorns the edge of the piece I bought, and there is embroidery on the back that the maker has made no attempt to hide or disguise. Some of the fabric is Indigo-dyed.

In the book, Ralli Quilts: Traditional Textiles from Pakistan and India by Patricia Ormsby Stoddard, page 63 shows a woman in Mirpurkhas who has cut out multiple elephant pieces to appliqué onto a ralli made for commerce. Seeing the elephant appliqués has convinced me that I have a ralli quilt. The tag on the back simply says, “100% cotton, made in India.” It was clearly made for the trade.

Ralli quilts are created in both large and small cities, including places in Sindh, Gujarat, and Rajasthan. I have a file about textiles from Pakistan and India on our website.

The International Quilt Study Center will exhibit thirty textiles in a display titled “South Asian Seams: Quilts from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh,” from May through November 2010. The curator of the exhibit is the aforementioned book author. Workshops will be held in conjunction with this exhibit. Check www.quiltstudy.org for more details, as they become available.

I am sure this exhibit will be welcome, as before Stoddard’s book, not a lot has been written on this subject for the general public. For more online information, visit: www.ralliquilt.com

Patricia Lynne Grace Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Molas

Monday, June 22nd, 2009

Ever since a friend who was leaving the area gave me a framed mola, I have been interested in knowing about them and the people who make them. They are an unusual textile that many people confuse with Hmong embroidery. Anthropologists suspect that long ago, the Kuna Indians and the Hmong people were connected.

Green geometric mola
The Kuna Indians are known for their geometric configurations and this one is outstanding with its brilliant green fabrics! This one is for sale: eBay #380001096616. All cotton cloth is brought to the islands where they live.

I have updated the Mola file on our website today, adding some beautiful photos, links, and additional resources. Yes, my interest is ongoing in any subject I peruse with initial research. I love to learn and I like to pass on what I have learned to you!

This is just a brief announcement. “A History of Molas” file is long and full of wonderful new images, courtesy of a friend. If you are looking for me, you might just find me in Panama!

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Yorgans and Other Turkish Quilts

Monday, June 15th, 2009

Istanbul, Turkey used to be a thriving mecca of quilting activity with 1200 traditional quiltmakers counted by the Chamber of Commerce. Today, about 200 quilters are plying their needles there, while in Ankara, a woman named Gunsu Gungor has become the “champion of quilting” in her country. A write-up about her and a beautiful appliqué block made Cemre, one of her two sons, can be seen at Planet Patchwork.

An interview with Gunsu (in Turkish) is worth clicking onto because if one scrolls down the page, there are wonderful examples of her quilts that had previously been placed on exhibit. Included are Crazy Quilts, dolls, and clothing, etc.

Another quilter is Sadiye Okyar, (you will be re-directed from that site link, right after clicking on it). She is associated with Mrs. Gungor via GC Patchwork Studio, owned by Gungor, but is a prolific quilter in her own right. An amazing amount of talent is shown in these online galleries that prove that piecework, appliqué, and landscape quilts, and dressmaking are alive and well in Turkey today.

Traditional Turkish quilts were wholecloth affairs, the bottom layer being muslin or cambric, and the top being a shiny, elegant-looking, satin. In between the outer layers were wads of sheep fleece. Washing the quilt required disassembling it. Therefore, the stitches to put it together were inordinately large for that reason.

Some modern Turkish quilts continue to be wholecloth and have satin tops. They look wonderful, quilted in designs such as “lozenges, pears, stars, tulips, clover, leaves, vines, carnations, violets, daisies” (and others).

The Tulip or “Lale” is a favorite and oft-repeated design motif.

Fatih Kurum (b. 1984) make wholecloth quilts and is considered a master craftman in quilting. He can be seen with some of his quilts at the Turkish Culture site.

Sally Ward, a British quilter, supplied the following two links on a mailing list: a Turkish male quiltmaker in his shop, and here’s another link.

A Turkish quiltmaker is called a Yorganci, (pronounced Yorganchi).

Halikarnasus, a European boutique, sells “Yorgans,” traditional Turkish quilts. These are cotton, measure 84″ long x 74″ wide and could cover a queen size bed. Each is filled with 10 pounds of Turkish cotton. They are stitched by hand, and priced at $250.

My first awareness of a quilting tradition in Turkey came when I purchased the book, Turkish Delights to Appliqué by Linda M. Poole, a total inspiration! The author’s 14 designs were inspired by a visit to Turkey after having met Gunsu Gungor at an international quilt show in Austria. Linda was invited by Istemihan Talay, Turkey’s Minister of Culture, “to teach and exhibit at the first International Peace with Quilts Exhibition.” (page 7, Poole book). Linda’s work is inspired by Iznik Tiles and Pottery, the first tile of which was given to her by Gunsu Gungor.

While I did not hunt down photos yet, to include on this page, I believe there are sufficient links to give you a good idea of the level of craftmanship being done in Turkey these days. We may not all be able to afford to go to Turkey, but the Internet continues to bring the quilting community together. As the lyrics of the song heard at Disney World said, “It’s A Small World, After All.”

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

How Do Hmong Women Carry Their Babies?

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009

For some time now, I have been fascinated with the history and ways of the Hmong people, many of whom have relocated to places within the United States since the end of the Vietnam War. In May 2009, the July issue of The Quilter magazine will feature the first of a series of articles I have written about the Hmong and their needlework. (Remember, the “H” in Hmong is silent, so please say, “mung.”) I have read a number of books about these people who are described as “fiercely independent.” I love their textiles and I am intrigued by their belief systems, faith manifestations, and folk legends.

Hmong baby carrier

I fell in love with this antique Hmong baby carrier made in Thailand. The bright colors attracted me, and the needlework, in person, is even more enchanting than any photo. The other side of the baby carrier is very drab in color, well-worn, and was washed often. Before selling a baby carrier, the straps are cut, according to custom. One can truly believe that Hmong women do embroider during every free moment. How else would someone get that much embroidery done?

Hmong people think that children are precious gifts and act accordingly. Mothers want their babies close to them, at all times, so they carry them on their backs. This particular baby carrier is not included in the articles I have prepared for The Quilter, mainly because it did not arrive in time, from Thailand, to be photographed. I hope this photo is a bit of a teaser for you, and that you will want to read the articles when they come out in the July and September issues (available in May and July, respectively).

I love to learn and am always seeking new venues, whether it is through taking a course, reading a book, watching a video, chatting with others, or visiting a museum. There are so many learning opportunities out there. Some of them cost almost nothing, or nothing … like my website and blog! See my current article, “Hmong Textile Art.” Enjoy!

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Folk Art from South Africa – “The Grandmother to Grandmother” Campaign

Saturday, March 28th, 2009

Facebook, an interactive social network online, is more than what it might appear to be, at first glance. People connect there, in meaningful ways. It is on Facebook that I first became aware of a landscape quilt artist named Valerie Hearder. One can see Valerie’s beautiful work on her website. She travels the world to teach, as well she should, being so talented, and she has written several books. Her first one is already out of print. Valerie currently lives in Nova Scotia, Canada and has been quilting since 1972.

When I saw some intriguing folk art textiles from South Africa, on Facebook, I had to know more. I contacted Valerie and in so doing, was able to purchase a small, embroidered piece to help support the “Grandmother to Grandmother” Campaign. You see, due to the HIV/AIDS pandemic in that country, the parents of children are dying, and grandmothers are left to care for not only their own grandchildren, but sometimes the children of neighbors. It is a dire situation. Valerie’s video on her Facebook page explains what is happening. The grandmothers are impoverished and sometimes very ill, but struggling to care for up to 20 children, in some cases.

Design area of South African textile

This scan shows the design area only of a 10 1/2 x 11 embroidered textile on a black background. The black borders (not shown) extend about an inch (unevenly) all around. As you can see, the colors are vibrant. The word “Rose” is present, but whether or not that is the name of the artist remains to be seen. Very few different types of stitches were employed in this work that relies heavily on chain stitch. It is a pleasure to think that the purchase of this work may help to feed some children.

She reports that Canadian grandmothers have responded well to this textile initiative to help. She can barely fill the demand there, let alone supply these wonderful embroideries to all who would like to help. Fifteen per cent of sales goes to the Stephen Lewis Foundation that (presumably) filters financial resources back to the South African communities.

If you want to purchase one of these pieces from Valerie, keep in mind that her prices are listed in Canadian currency. You can adjust Paypal payments to pay the seller, in any other currency. If you “Google” Valerie’s name, you will see that she runs a yahoo group about Landscape Quilts. She is one busy lady, and I am so happy to have made her acquaintance, online.

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Molitas – Little Textile Treasures

Saturday, March 7th, 2009

Molita is a word that means little mola,” in Spanish. Molas have intrigued me for some time now, but not only the molas themselves, but the people who make them. These textile treasures are the work of the Kuna Indians who live on a series of archipelagos off the coast of Panama. The tribes were discovered by traders a long time ago, and boats pull up to their shorelines, daily, to purchased goods from them, particularly molas.

bird molita that is owned by Sandra Munsey

Usually these molas have been disassembled from blouses, not made brand new for the tourist trade. Every time I think of the time I passed up buying a mola that depicts John and Jackie Kennedy, I could just have a hissy fit! It was in a museum shop, and at the time, fifty dollars seemed like “too much.” So much for being both stupid at the time and frugal by nature.

The Kuna Indians often feature sports figures or other celebrities, sometimes based on magazines or newspaper images that the tourists leave behind. There is much more information about molas on our website.

Molitas are smaller, less intricate versions of molas, often featuring less layers of cloth and less embroidery. Some people collect these tiny molas that may, at times, have been learning pieces for children or others. The image seen below is that of a bird. You see simplistic embroidery around the eye and that’s it. As you can also surmise, there is no attempt to keep the outside layers plumb, while working, and this is clearly a practice piece.

Molita from Kuna Indians

To learn more about Molas and molitas, I recommend two files on my website:

A History of Molas

A Review of a Greenfield, Massachusetts Show that features a photo of molitas

If you would like to try your hand at making a mola, a “molita” may be the way to go. Have fun!

cat molita, courtesy of Sandra Munsey

This particular molita has at lease six layers of cloth. The design on any mola is created through channel cutting and needleturn appliqué and embroidery.

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications