Pakistani Textiles and Embroideries Including Indian Work and Shisha Mirrors

Pakistani Textiles and Embroideries

Including Indian Work and Shisha Mirrors

by Patricia L. Cummings

The country of Pakistan lies on the eastern border of India and, once a part of India, it has existed as a separate country only since 1947. The country also borders China, Iran, and Afghanistan. Pakistan has possessed a developed system of textile production for centuries. Therefore, it is not surprising that Ralli quilts, also made in India, as well as certain types of embroidery, and the use of Shisha mirrors are part of the needlework traditions of Pakistan.

Old Pakistani Tribal Woman's Dress

Old Tribal Embroidery- Woman's Dress - Pakistan - Ethnic Art

Ebay seller "Pandrosa" listed "Old Tribal Embroidery - Woman's Dress - Ethnic Art - Pakistan. This item is from the Afghanistan/Pakistan border and was made circa 1950.

Pakistani dress - close up

Here you can see a close-up view of the surface decoration and extensive button work on the bodice of the dress. photo courtesy of "pandrosa."

Pakistani dress - sleeve detail

Sleeve detail for the same dress. Many thanks to "Peter," for allowing us to print the last three photos. He is located in British Columbia, Canada and has an online store: Ethnic Jewelry and Art

Cotton Growing, Spinning, Weaving

Pakistan has a long tradition of growing cotton and dyeing cloth that dates back to pre-historic times. Proof of that fact has been found via a madder-dyed fragment of cloth. Spinning and weaving were used to create cloth of natural fibers.

Since Muslim men were forbidden to wear silk next to their skin, a new fabric was designed that has silk warp and a cotton weft, that produces a satin weave. This fabric is called mashru which means "allowed." The national language of Pakistan is Urdu, but the official language is English. The nomadic weavers of Pakistan customarily tote around horizontal looms. These looms are very practical, easily portable, and are still in use.

Natural Fabric Dyes

The plant Indigo tinctoria, that grows along the Indus River, supplied plenty of indigo dye. Other natural dyes in Pakistan are derived from madder (root), pomegranate, walnut, and tea, as well as lac, which is a resinous substance deposited on twigs of trees in southern Asia that produces a red color. Another substance used for dyeing is called catechu. That consists of a number of astringent substances harvested from tropical plants, especially those from the wood of two East Indian acacias.

Styles of Embroidery Vary

Each region of Pakistan has its own distinctive style of embroidery. Nomadic tribes from Central Asia may have introduced phulkari, an embroidery style from Punjab, one of the four provincial districts of Pakistan. To be chosen for marriage, a girl must have made a good supply of embroidered goods in phulkari. Work of this kind comprises part of a dowry.

Kanduri in Cotton Patchwork and Appliqué

Kanduri, in patchwork and applique - cotton

Rare textile from Bahraich, Uttar Pradesh, India, from circa 1950. 51" x 51"

The Kanduri pictured above is a rare and sacred textile. The eBay seller, "pandrosa," who so kindly shared the image seen here, said this about the piece:

They are the offerings from the tomb of Saint Salar Mas'ud, the warrior nephew of Mahmud of Ghazni, slain in battle in 1033. By 1325, a cult had evolved around his tomb, mainly from people suffering from leg trouble, and when the Saint's anniversary is celebrated, offerings of flags are made in honor of his flagstaff, one of the shrine's relics. During the celebration, the flag is also know as Kanduri, or tablecloth, because of the offerings of food and incense made to it. After the initial offering has been ceremonially buried, the rest is distributed and consumed on the new cloths brought by the devotees. As a rule, Kanduris are stained by food and by incense.

Note: The Encyclopedia Brittanica online states that Sayyid Salar Mas'ud was an Afghan warrior-saint. His tomb in visited by Muslim and Hindu pilgrims alike.

We are happy to include this textile from India for your viewing pleasure. Thank you, Peter!

Another Indian Textile

I purchased an antique textile from India. It is heavily appliquéd in mostly colors that are not vibrant, but tend toward gray and beige. Elephants and camels are heavily represented, an indication that this piece is not Islamic made. According to one source, “living beings are not usually represented in Islamic Art.”

More than likely, this is a ralli quilt. The name “ralli” is thought to be derivative of the word, “ralannu,” a verb that means to mix, to join, or to connect. A number of name variations for “ralli” exist, and ralli quilts are made in Rajasthan. As is typical of rallis, patchwork (a sawtooth appliqué design) adorns the edge of the piece I bought, and there is embroidery on the back that the maker has made no attempt to hide or disguise. Some of the fabric is Indigo-dyed.

In the book, Ralli Quilts: Traditional Textiles from Pakistan and India by Patricia Ormsby Stoddard, page 63 shows a woman in Mirpurkhas who has cut out multiple elephant pieces to appliqué onto a ralli made for commerce. Seeing the elephant appliqués has convinced me that I have a ralli quilt. The tag on the back simply says, “100% cotton, made in India.” It was clearly made for the trade. Ralli quilts are created in both large and small cities, including places in Sindh, Gujarat, and Rajasthan.

Other Bits of Information about Pakistani Textiles

A book titled, World Textiles: A Visual Guide to Traditional Techniques by John Gillow and Bryan Sentance, offers tidbits of information and visuals that are most interesting. On page 14, there is a photo of a bolster cover from Swat-Kohistan, Pakistan, and a statement that pre-Islamic motifs such as the "Tree of Life" are still being used. On page 23, there is a shepherd's coat, made of wool, that hails from the chilly, mountain region of Chitral in Northern Pakistan. On page 95, there is a mention of khes, that is, double weave textiles that are sewn together to make bedding, in the Punjab and Sindh provinces.

Shisha Mirror Work

Shisha mirrors are pieces of glass that are applied to garments, purses, and other objects by embroidery stitches. Shisha is the word used by Hindus, but abhla is the word for the same item when Muslims describe mirror glass. The true Indian shisha measures about one half inch in diameter. In her book, Quilting the World Over, Willow Ann Soltow (Sirch) includes the thought that shisha are thought to ward off evil spirits (jinns) when they see their own reflection in the mirrors. They serve to bring good luck and safety from harm.

Shisha mirrors - collection of Pat Cummings

Notice the differing colors of these Shisha mirrors. Some are silver, some green, and some ochre color. Collection of Patricia Cummings

About ten years ago, I purchased some "authentic" Shishas from a company in California that is now out of business. I thought it would be fun to learn how to embroider them onto a textile.

Welcome banner from India features chain stitch (tambour work) and real Shisha mirrors in both silver and green. Collection of Patricia Cummings

Fascinating Textiles

This short article is like a drop of water in the ocean. There is much more to learn and to know about Pakistan and its textiles. The more one finds out, the more one is able to better understand the underlying cultural, social, economic, and religious currents that affect styles of dress and that dictate the use of textiles in any society. Simply put, textiles tell a lot about who we are.